Precision Fermentation Explained

The Unmilked Curd: Is the World Ready for Lab-Grown Cheese?

In a modest east London building, a quiet food revolution is underway. The British company Better Dairy is developing a cheese produced without any connection to a farm. The company argues its products, born from science, deliver the authentic character of traditional dairy. This venture is not alone. A small group of pioneering enterprises around the world is competing to introduce laboratory-developed cheese to family meals in the near future. This signals a new chapter for one of humanity’s most ancient foods.

These pioneers believe technology can provide a sustainable and ethical alternative to animal agriculture. They are using ancient techniques like fermentation, supercharged with modern biotechnology, to create the building blocks of cheese without the cow. Their ambition is huge: to convince a global market of cheese lovers that the future of their favourite food lies not in a field, but in a fermenter. The journey, however, is fraught with challenges, from consumer scepticism to regulatory processes and the simple, yet crucial, question of taste.

A New Breed of Cheesemaker

The emerging field of precision-fermented dairy is populated by ambitious start-ups. London’s Better Dairy, founded in 2020, has raised over $22 million and is a notable player. Initially focused on recreating traditional cheeses, the company has also expanded its scope to produce high-value, bioactive proteins for nutrition products. It aims to create dairy equivalents that do not force consumers to compromise on flavour or experience. This reflects a strategy of targeting multiple markets to ensure commercial viability.

In continental Europe, other key players are making significant moves. The Netherlands-based Those Vegan Cowboys, founded by the entrepreneurs behind The Vegetarian Butcher, are developing microbial casein they claim outperforms the dairy original in melt and stretch. They envision a future where farmers operate "stainless steel cows," turning grass into high-value proteins with greater efficiency. At the same time, the French company Standing Ovation works closely with a food industry leader. A strategic alliance has been formed with the Bel Group, which produces Babybel and Boursin, to speed up the integration of its animal-free caseins into widely sold items.

The Science Behind the Slice

Precision fermentation is the technology driving this new kind of cheese. For decades, this method has been employed to create things like insulin for people with diabetes and rennet, a crucial enzyme in cheesemaking. The technique starts with selecting a microorganism, like yeast or fungi. Scientists then genetically alter this microbe, providing it with a DNA sequence copied from a cow. This new genetic instruction tells the microbe to create specific dairy proteins, such as casein or whey, instead of its typical output, like alcohol.

These engineered microbes are placed in large, stainless-steel fermentation tanks, similar to those used in breweries. Inside, they are fed a diet of simple nutrients and sugars. As the microbes ferment this feedstock, they produce large quantities of the target milk proteins. After fermentation, the next step is purification. The desired proteins are carefully filtered and separated from the microbes and other by-products. The resulting powder is prepared for use as a food component, creating the foundation for a novel type of cheese.

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The Environmental Promise

A primary motivation driving the development of animal-free dairy is sustainability. Proponents argue that precision fermentation offers a powerful solution to the significant environmental footprint of traditional dairy farming. The production of conventional milk is a resource-intensive process, demanding vast quantities of land for grazing and growing feed crops. It also consumes enormous volumes of water and is a major source of greenhouse gas emissions, particularly methane from cattle.

By moving production from the farm to the fermenter, companies believe they can dramatically reduce these impacts. An independent life-cycle assessment of the process from Standing Ovation found its casein generates 94% fewer greenhouse gas emissions. Similarly, claims from Those Vegan Cowboys state its method is five times more efficient than cows in terms of land and water use. These technologies offer a pathway to producing essential proteins while freeing up agricultural land for potential rewilding or less intensive farming, contributing to both climate and biodiversity goals.

A Challenging Retail Climate

Even with promising technology, these novel cheese products face a difficult and complicated market. The initial boom in plant-based alternatives appears to be stabilising. An analysis from the Good Food Institute Europe revealed that while plant-based food sales grew in countries like Germany and France between 2022 and 2024, sales dropped within the United Kingdom. This suggests that the initial wave of consumer curiosity may be meeting the harder reality of repeat purchases, where taste and price become critical factors.

Information from the AHDB, a UK statutory levy board, indicated that early in 2025, sales of plant-derived cheese in the UK decreased as cow's cheese purchases increased. A contributing factor to this trend is the limited and slightly shrinking vegan community in Great Britain, which represents just 3% of all inhabitants. However, other data paints a more optimistic picture for the broader category, with a 56% increase in plant-based orders at UK quick-service restaurants in 2024. This indicates that while the grocery market is tough, out-of-home consumption shows robust growth.

The Price Hurdle

One of the most significant barriers to mass adoption is cost. Currently, producing cheese via precision fermentation is an expensive process. The research, development, and scaling of the technology require substantial investment, making the final product considerably dearer than its conventional counterpart. The London company Better Dairy admits its cheese from the lab is currently too expensive for a public launch. The company’s plan involves a waiting period of several years. It aims to first achieve a price similar to specialty cheese shops, before ultimately matching the prices found in grocery stores.

This cost challenge is being tackled head-on. California’s New Culture, which focuses on mozzarella, recently achieved a breakthrough by cutting its required volume of animal-free casein by more than half. This step is crucial on its path to achieving price parity with traditional mozzarella. For many companies, the short-term solution is to target foodservice, particularly high-end restaurants where chefs are keen to innovate and customers are less price-sensitive. This allows brands to build a following and refine their product before attempting to compete in the cut-throat retail sector.

Navigating Global Regulations

Before any of these products can reach consumers, they must pass through a complex web of international food safety regulations. In the European Union and the post-Brexit UK, proteins made via precision fermentation are classified as "novel foods." This means they require specific, pre-market authorisation from regulators, a process that can be lengthy and expensive. Companies must submit extensive dossiers proving the safety and consistency of their product, a hurdle that can take multiple years to clear.

The regulatory landscape in the United States is generally considered more streamlined. There, companies can pursue a status known as Generally Recognised as Safe (GRAS). New Culture became the first company to achieve self-affirmed GRAS status for its animal-free casein in early 2024. This paved the way for its US launch. Aiming for the American market initially, Better Dairy hopes to obtain GRAS recognition by early 2026. This difference in regulations clarifies why numerous European businesses intend to introduce their products to the American market long before they are available domestically.

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The American Frontier

The United States has become the primary beachhead for the animal-free dairy revolution. Its combination of a large, receptive market, significant venture capital investment, and a clearer regulatory pathway makes it an attractive launchpad. New Culture plans to debut its animal-free mozzarella in a collaboration with celebrated chef Nancy Silverton at her renowned Los Angeles establishment, Pizzeria Mozza. This high-profile partnership is designed to generate buzz and establish the cheese's culinary credentials from the outset.

Competitors from Europe are also focusing on America. A market introduction in the United States is planned by Those Vegan Cowboys for the middle of 2025, significantly preceding a European release. The company has already been working with US pizza producers to test its microbial casein. In a similar move, the French business Standing Ovation anticipates that its initial offerings with the Bel Group will be available in America first. The successful precedent set by Perfect Day, another precision fermentation company whose animal-free whey is already in US products like ice cream and cream cheese, has created a clear path for others to follow.

A Taste of the Future

Finally, widespread adoption depends on a straightforward query: is the flavour appealing? One person who regularly consumes meat and dairy sampled products from Better Dairy. The verdict was that their flavour profile was more authentic than any other substitutes experienced before. The company is currently focused on producing cheddar, identifying the most significant disparity in quality among hard non-dairy cheeses. Its aged cheddars were reported to have an authentic flavour profile, though the younger cheese had a somewhat rubber-like consistency, while the more aged varieties were excessively salty. Importantly, when placed on a burger, the product melted effectively, a critical measure of performance.

Better Dairy acknowledges there is room for improvement. The business intends to supply its non-dairy "milk" to expert cheesemakers, trusting their skills will enhance the concluding flavour and consistency. This highlights a key part of the development process: the protein may be identical, but the craft of turning it into a delicious cheese remains an art. The ultimate goal is to create a product that is not just a substitute, but a genuinely desirable cheese in its own right, capable of satisfying even the most discerning palates.

The Quest for the Perfect Fat

Creating a convincing cheese alternative involves more than just protein. The fat component is crucial for delivering the creamy mouthfeel and flavour profile that consumers expect from dairy. This presents a significant challenge for product developers. Many existing plant-based cheeses rely on coconut or nut-based fats, which can impart unwelcome "off-flavours" that betray their non-dairy origins. Kate Royle, a scientist with Better Dairy, observes this as a frequent reason for customer unhappiness regarding existing vegan choices.

To fix this, businesses are labouring to refine fats from plants so they feel and taste more like conventional dairy fats. This involves sophisticated food science to create neutral-tasting fats that provide the right texture and act as a carrier for flavour, without adding their own unwanted notes. New Culture's mozzarella, for instance, uses a blend of sunflower and coconut oils alongside its casein. Mastering the fat component is a critical, and often overlooked, step in closing the quality gap with conventional cheese.

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Beyond a Single Slice

The innovation in animal-free dairy extends across the entire cheeseboard. While some companies are focused on perfecting a single type, others are demonstrating the versatility of their technology. The casein from Standing Ovation, the company states, is suitable for creating a broad spectrum of cheeses, which includes softer types such as camembert. This is significant because the subtle, complex flavours of mould-ripened cheeses have been particularly difficult to replicate with plant-based ingredients alone.

Those Vegan Cowboys is taking a strategic approach, initially focusing on cheeses that are easy to replace in composite foods. Think of the mozzarella on a frozen pizza or the slice in a ready-made cheeseburger. Hille van der Kaa, the chief executive, describes this strategy as a quiet transformation. It involves replacing ingredients in items where shoppers do not typically consider the exact cheese used. At the same time, the company has hinted it is working on classics like Gouda and Feta, showing its long-term ambition to compete across all major cheese categories.

The 'Ultra-Processed' Question

As these new food technologies emerge, they run into a growing headwind of consumer concern around ultra-processed foods (UPFs). A government poll conducted not long ago showed that shoppers in the United Kingdom were most worried about cost, with the ultra-processed nature of food being their next biggest issue. Since lab-grown cheeses are created by combining purified proteins with plant-based fats and other ingredients, they could easily be classified as UPFs. This presents a potential marketing and perception challenge for the sector.

Companies in the space are preparing their counterarguments. They contend that any form of cheesemaking is a type of processing. Furthermore, they argue their products offer clear health benefits, such as being free from lactose and cholesterol, and have reduced amounts of saturated fat. Supporters such as Hille van der Kaa also propose that individuals maintain an idealized perception of classic dairy agriculture, which is now a highly industrialised process itself. She contends that a significant educational effort is needed to demonstrate how cheese is produced today.

Consumer Scepticism in the UK

Winning over the public remains a formidable task. According to a recent evidence review by the UK’s Food Standards Agency, while over half of UK consumers (52-68%) are willing to try precision-fermented dairy, only a minority (17-35%) are willing to purchase it regularly. This gap between curiosity and commitment highlights the hurdles of trust and familiarity that companies must overcome. Key concerns for the British public include food safety, affordability, and a perception of "unnaturalness."

When questioned about selling precision-fermented foods within the United Kingdom, 37% of respondents were undecided, while 34% were opposed. There is also significant confusion over labelling. Many consumers are unsure if these products are truly vegan, especially since they contain dairy-identical proteins. This suggests that simple, clear, and transparent communication will be essential. Building consumer trust will be as important as perfecting the technology itself.

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Not Just for Vegans

An interesting finding from consumer research is that vegans may not be the primary market for these new products. One UK study found that flexitarians—people who are actively reducing their meat and dairy consumption—were the most likely group to purchase precision-fermented dairy, while there was no statistical difference between vegans and omnivores. This suggests the biggest opportunity lies with the large and growing number of mainstream consumers who are looking for better-tasting, more sustainable, or healthier alternatives to conventional products.

This insight shapes company strategy. Rather than positioning their products in a niche vegan category, many firms aim for the main dairy aisle. They are targeting consumers who love traditional cheese but are open to an alternative that performs just as well without the associated environmental or ethical issues. According to Damian Watson, who represents the Vegan Society, tastes differ greatly. Some individuals who follow a vegan diet desire a perfect dairy imitation, whereas others look for an experience that is entirely new. This diversity of opinion reinforces the idea that the largest prize is the mainstream, flexitarian consumer.

The Power of Strategic Alliances

To succeed, small start-ups cannot work in isolation. They need the scale, manufacturing expertise, and market access of established food giants. This reality has led to a series of powerful strategic partnerships. The collaboration between Standing Ovation and Bel Group is a prime example. The agreement will see scientists from both companies working together to integrate Standing Ovation's casein into Bel's iconic cheese brands. Bel has also taken an equity stake in the start-up, signalling a deep, long-term commitment.

Alliances have also been formed by Those Vegan Cowboys with legacy operators, among them a Dutch dairy co-op and Westland Kaas, which makes Old Amsterdam cheese. These partnerships provide a vital route to market and allow the start-ups to leverage decades of cheesemaking experience. For the established dairy companies, it offers a hedge against future disruption and a chance to innovate in a fast-moving sector. These symbiotic relationships are crucial for scaling production and bringing down costs, paving the way for mainstream adoption.

A Revolution on the Cheeseboard?

The journey for animal-free cheese is just beginning, and its destination is far from certain. The technology of precision fermentation is powerful, offering the potential to create products with a fraction of the environmental impact of traditional dairy. Innovators are making rapid progress, improving taste, texture, and cost-efficiency. Strategic partnerships with major food companies are laying the groundwork for production at a global scale. The prospect of a sustainable, ethical, and delicious alternative to conventional cheese is no longer science fiction.

However, the path to the consumer's plate is littered with obstacles. Regulatory approval is a slow and costly process, especially in Europe. The high price point remains a major barrier to mass-market appeal. Most importantly, these new products must overcome significant consumer scepticism about safety, naturalness, and taste. The destiny of this movement will be determined not in a laboratory, but at grocery stores and on family dining tables. Success will require not only scientific brilliance but also a new level of trust between the people who make our food and those who eat it.