England’s Last Ashes Sea Voyage

Voyage for the Urn: The Last Time England Sailed to the Ashes

The Ashes, cricket's most enduring rivalry, possesses a mystique intensified by the immense distance separating England and Australia. This biennial contest is more than just a competition; it represents a pilgrimage for players and fans, a 10,000-mile journey to the heart of sporting battle. The modern-day England team, under the leadership of Ben Stokes, confronts Australian hostility from the moment they land, a reception amplified by the local press. Yet, their journey is one of supreme comfort, a stark contrast to the experiences of their predecessors. Long before business-class flights and personalised comforts, a trip "down under" was an epic sea voyage, an odyssey spanning multiple weeks that forged teams and tested resolve in an entirely different manner. This bygone era of travel added a unique chapter to the rich narrative of the Ashes.

An Unfamiliar Journey for Modern Stars

Today’s professional cricketers would likely be appalled by the idea of a prolonged sea journey before a major series. Such a lengthy trip seems incompatible with modern preparation regimes that prioritise sports science and peak physical conditioning. The notion of spending weeks aboard a ship, away from state-of-the-art training facilities, is entirely alien. In a striking contrast, David Larter, a fast bowler on the final England team to travel by sea for the 1962-63 tour, viewed the experience as idyllic. Residing on a grand ocean liner offered a unique lifestyle that he cherished. At that time, the sport's governing body, the Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC), arranged first-class passage for the players, creating a singular social environment where young athletes mingled with sun-seeking millionaires. This extended time together proved instrumental in building team cohesion.

A Voyage of Team Spirit

The period on the ocean was a crucial time for building camaraderie and unity within the squad. Freed from the demands of the English cricket season, players had the opportunity to connect on a deeper level. The shared experience of the long voyage fostered a sense of togetherness that was difficult to replicate in other circumstances. When the vessel arrived in Perth, the squad was no longer a collection of individuals but a tightly-knit group, ready to face the challenges of the tour as one. This bonding was an unintended but invaluable byproduct of the lengthy journey. The enforced proximity and shared daily routines helped to break down barriers and forge lasting friendships, creating a resilient unit prepared for the intense competition that awaited them in Australia.

A Hybrid Itinerary in a Changing World

The 1962-63 tour itself represented a transition away from the gruelling maritime expeditions of earlier Ashes journeys. Reflecting the advent of modern air travel, the English team travelled partially by air, landing in Aden, Yemen. There, they boarded the SS Canberra, a vessel that would be their home for the concluding portion of the journey to Perth. This arrangement meant the players spent a short ten-day period on the ocean. For a young David Larter, then only 22, the tour was a monumental experience. Standing at an imposing 6ft 7in, the lively pace bowler had only made his first appearance in a Test against Pakistan earlier that year. The journey represented a significant step up from his life just two years prior when he was employed at an insurance company.

From County Grounds to International Waters

Larter's rise was swift. His professional career began with Northamptonshire just two seasons earlier, quickly establishing himself as a formidable talent. His performances earned him a place in the esteemed Gentlemen v Players match in the 1962 summer. This rapid ascent culminated in his selection for the Ashes tour, making him the most junior member of a squad filled with cricketing legends. The team, led by the charismatic Ted Dexter, included legendary figures such as Colin Cowdrey, Fred Trueman, Brian Statham and Ray Illingworth. England was aiming to reclaim the urn following a 2-1 loss at home in 1961, adding a layer of expectation and pressure to the monumental tour that lay ahead.

An Unusually Long Wind-Up

The preparation for the tour was, by modern standards, incredibly protracted. England's players assembled in London near September's conclusion, with two full months before the inaugural Test, scheduled for 30 November. This lengthy build-up began with the flight to Aden, where the team was greeted by eager local traders. Richard Sayer's biography of Larter recounts a lighthearted moment involving the renowned BBC cricket commentator Brian Johnston. Known for his jovial nature, Johnston was seen humorously trying to arrange the purchase of a single shoe from a persistent salesman, a small anecdote that captures the unique atmosphere of a bygone touring era, a complete departure from the sterile, organised arrivals of today's international sports teams.

Life on the Ocean Waves 

Once The Canberra set sail, the team members needed to discover activities for the extended time on the ocean. For David Larter, the answer was simple: food. He recalled the period as a continuous period of exceptional dining, an experience unmatched in his life, before or after. The ship's stewards, seemingly delighted to have a contingent of hungry athletes on board, would present enormous trolleys laden with wonderful food, confident that every last morsel would be consumed. This culinary indulgence, while a treat for the cricketers, presented a challenge. With a demanding Ashes series on the horizon, maintaining fitness was a paramount concern for the team's management, who had to devise a regimen to counteract the effects of the first-class dining.

Conditioning on the Water

The players' fitness routine was a combination of organised sessions and improvisation. Mornings were dedicated to exercise classes, and netted-off badminton courts provided an outlet for competitive energy. The squad would also engage in weightlifting and calisthenics, doing their best to stay in shape within the confines of the ship. However, the team's leadership desired a more structured approach to the team's conditioning. The presence of another famous sporting figure on board The Canberra provided a unique opportunity. Captain Ted Dexter discovered that Gordon Pirie, a distinguished British athlete and a silver medallist in the 5,000 metres in the Melbourne Olympics of 1956, was also a passenger on the voyage.

An Olympian’s Training Regimen

The team quickly asked Pirie to lead their fitness training. He appeared on deck in his shorts, ready to impart his expertise. His chosen exercise was straightforward: running laps around the vast perimeter of the ship. The distance was considerable, but a compliant David Larter did as he was told. However, not every member of the touring party was as receptive to the Olympian's methods. The famously plain-spoken Fred Trueman, one of England's premier fast bowlers, had just endured a demanding English summer, having delivered over 1,100 overs. He was in no mood for what he considered unnecessary exertion and voiced his opinion in no uncertain terms.

Image Credit - by Airwolfhound, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A Bowler’s Rebellion

Fred Trueman made it abundantly clear that he had no intention of jogging around the ship for anybody. He argued that the best way for a cricketer to achieve fitness was through playing cricket, not by running around a passenger liner. He had bowled a tremendous number of overs during the recently concluded domestic season and saw no merit in Pirie's proposal. Trueman's firm stance effectively ended the experiment. The initiative led by Gordon Pirie, as Larter referred to it, quickly died off. The incident highlighted the different philosophies on physical preparation that existed at the time, long before dedicated strength and conditioning coaches became an integral part of a cricketer's support staff.

A Voyage of Discovery and Social Contrasts

For David Larter, the voyage was a deeply personal event. It was not only his first tour with the England team but also his first time travelling outside the United Kingdom. On the ship, he navigated two distinct social worlds. On the ship's higher levels, he socialized with the affluent, first-class travellers. Below deck, he encountered a different group of passengers: the "Poms" who were emigrating to start a different life in Australia. Larter found the reception in the lower decks to be the most enthusiastic. He met many young people, full of hope and ambition, eager to make their fortunes. The experience was fascinating, and the numerous bars on board provided a relaxed environment for a relaxed drink and chat.

An Unconventional Warm-Up in Ceylon

 voyage to Australia was not a non-stop passage. In a move that would be unthinkable in today's tightly scheduled cricket calendar, the English side stopped over in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) for a warm-up match in Colombo. The game provided a memorable, if slightly embarrassing, moment for David Larter. After Ted Dexter announced that he would open the bowling, Larter marked out his run-up, charged in, and immediately stumbled and fell. He picked himself up, tried again, and suffered the same fate. His land legs had deserted him following ten days on the vessel, his body unaccustomed to solid ground. Dexter had to take him off the attack, with Barry Knight completing the over.

Hospitality and New Horizons

Despite the shaky start on the pitch, the stopover in Colombo was a highlight for the young bowler. The team was hosted and cared for by the British Army, who organised a grand cookout on the shore. For Larter, the journey from his origins in a quiet Suffolk town to a lively Sri Lankan shore, surrounded by new and interesting people, was a true revelation. It was a vivid illustration of the unique opportunities that international sport offered, broadening horizons and creating memories far removed from the cricket field. The tour was already proving to be an education in more ways than one.

The Duke and the Cricketers

A different kind of education for Larter involved his interactions with the team's manager. In that era, the role of the manager extended beyond logistics and discipline; they were also a figurehead and a representative for the entire group. Tours were highly social events, filled with functions, handshakes, and speeches. For the 1962-63 tour, the unexpected appointee for this esteemed position was the 16th Duke of Norfolk, Bernard Fitzalan-Howard. His aristocratic status commanded a certain level of deference from the players. Larter recalled the strict etiquette: the Duke was to be addressed as "your grace" in the morning, and as "his grace" during introductions. For the remainder of the day, "sir" was the required form of address.

An Unexpectedly Knowledgeable Manager

The protocol was reminiscent of military life, where one understood the proper etiquette. The Duke, however, surprised the players with his genuine passion for and knowledge of cricket. He made an effort to get to know every player on the team, hosting them for dinner in pairs. Despite this personal touch, his social life operated on a completely different plane to that of the professional cricketers. His presence added a unique, almost regal, dimension to the tour. The appointment was unusual but reflected a time when the administration of English cricket was deeply entwined with the establishment, and a figure of high social standing was seen as a suitable ambassador for the sport.

Distractions and Divergent Views

Not all members of the England contingent viewed the Duke's appointment favorably. Fred Trueman, ever the pragmatist, saw the manager's presence as one of several distractions. The media, he felt, was more interested in the Duke's racehorses than in the upcoming Ashes series. This focus was compounded by the presence of other notable figures among the travelling group, such as the Reverend David Sheppard, a respected clergyman and cricketer, and Susan Dexter, the captain's wife, who was a model. Trueman lamented that newspapers and television programmes seemed to be full of stories about the Duke’s racing schedule, Sheppard’s sermons, and Mrs Dexter’s attire, rather than the cricket itself.

A Stark Contrast in Preparation

The preparation for the 1962 tour stands in stark contrast to the modern era. This week, the current England side will play just one warm-up match, a three-day affair against the England Lions in Perth, before the series begins. In 1962, the schedule was vastly different. Prior to the inaugural Test, the English team contested nine fixtures in five separate states, a process that took six weeks. The entire tour spanned five months, during which they participated in 22 games on top of the five Tests, visiting the most remote parts of the vast Australian continent. This extensive itinerary allowed the players to acclimatise fully and engage with local communities in a way that is no longer possible.

Embracing the Australian Lifestyle

David Larter immersed himself in the Australian way of life. The £1,250 payment he received for the tour, worth over £23,000 in today's money, allowed him to live comfortably. He was so taken with the country and its people that he received three job offers simply through casual conversations. The thought of relocating permanently crossed his mind. Communication with home was a world away from today's instant connectivity. There was no thought of making a phone call; instead, news came via airmail and delayed copies of the Telegraph newspaper delivered to the players' locker room. Celebrating Christmas with a cookout on the sand was a surreal experience for the Englishman, a memorable introduction to the different traditions of the southern hemisphere.

A Bittersweet Ashes Campaign

Despite his enjoyment of the tour, Larter's Ashes experience was professionally bittersweet. He appeared to possess all the attributes to succeed on Australian pitches—height, pace, and bounce—yet he did not participate in any of the Test matches. He remained in the shadow of the established and formidable new-ball pairing of Fred Trueman and Brian Statham. After England secured a 1-0 lead by winning the Melbourne Test, Australia countered with a victory in Sydney to tie the series. The final two contests were draws, leaving the series at 1-1 and allowing the home side to retain the Ashes. For Larter, watching from the sidelines was a deeply depressing experience.

Opportunity Knocks in New Zealand

Although the Ashes campaign ended disappointingly, Larter’s moment arrived soon after. Remarkably, the tour continued to New Zealand, extending the players' time abroad to six months. There, Larter played in all three Tests and made an immediate impact, taking seven wickets in the Auckland opener. England swept the series 3-0. For Larter, this performance was a powerful validation. He felt that taking a large haul of wickets sent a strong message to those who had overlooked him in Australia.

The End of an Era and a New Beginning

The team arrived back in England near the end of March, just before the start of the new county season. Larter stayed in and around the national side for three more years, finishing his career with 10 Test appearances. He was selected for the following Ashes tour of Australia in 1965-66, this time making the journey entirely by plane, marking the conclusion of the sea travel era. Unfortunately, the tour brought more frustration in Australia. Larter sustained a severe ankle injury that ultimately brought a premature end to his promising career. It was another Ashes tour on which he did not feature in a Test match.

Life After Cricket

Following his injury-enforced retirement, Larter distanced himself from cricket, developing a feeling he described as "anti-cricket." He turned down offers of coaching roles, choosing instead to work in his father's transport company, a complete change of direction from the world of professional sport. Today, he lives a quiet life in mid-Wales with his wife, Thelma. He still cherishes souvenirs from his career. His official England cap is on view, a concrete reminder of his international days. He also possesses the team picture from the 1962-63 tour and slides showing images from The Canberra, which preserve the unique journey's memories.

A Wonderful, Unbelievable Experience

Reflecting on that final voyage to the Ashes, the experience remains vivid in Larter's memory. He describes it as unbelievable in its truest sense, an adventure that seemed too good to be true, yet it happened. The trip forged a team identity and a bond that outlasted the competition. Despite the on-field disappointment, he considers it the best period of his life. The voyage on The Canberra was more than travel; it was a core component of the tour, a memorable final entry in the history of England's maritime quests for the Ashes. It was, in his own words, simply wonderful.