Happiness Lessons from Lapland
My Search for Happiness in Lapland: A Journey Above the Arctic Circle
Most folks don't think of a deep-winter trip to Finnish Lapland as the ideal path to happiness. But sometimes, the most unexpected adventures bring the greatest rewards.
My first breath outside the tiny Kittila Airport made my nose hairs instantly stiffen. Despite the morning hour, stars still twinkled in the sky. The temperature read minus 4 degrees, a brutal change from my home in Colorado.
Stepping off the plane and onto the icy tarmac of Finnish Lapland felt like the realization of a lifelong dream. I'm one of those oddballs captivated by the idea of exploring the Arctic in January. The magic of polar night above the frozen north had been calling to me for ages.
True, it wasn't quite polar night yet. We'd arrived a couple of weeks after the sun had started to peek back over the horizon. But with just four hours of daylight, it was still close enough to feel the otherworldly pull of the far north.
The Lapland Happiness Quandary
Before our trip, I'd faced skeptical questions from friends and family. Finland in January? Was I sure about that? The country had been steadily topping the World Happiness Report since 2018, and was once again crowned the happiest in March 2024. Yet, I struggled to imagine how this land of pickled fish and extreme light cycles could genuinely be the world's happiest. Surely that couldn't be healthy, could it?
Then I stumbled upon it – images of snow-laden pine trees lit by ethereal skies, dog sled teams rushing through immaculate forests, and the breathtaking dance of the aurora borealis. That undeniable visual magic hooked me instantly. I'm a traveler who follows my gut and my eyes, not necessarily 'top ten' lists. A few scrolls through those beautiful photographs, and I knew we were heading to Lapland, that sliver of the Arctic encompassing northern Norway, Sweden, and Finland. Despite the challenges and the cost, I couldn't ignore the feeling that this was a place I needed to experience.
We'd planned a five-day adventure: skiing, dog sledding, and, with a bit of luck, witnessing the elusive Northern Lights. On that first blurry, jet-lagged day, we set off for the top of Levi Ski Resort, or "fell" as the locals call it. The weak sunlight and bone-chilling temperatures created an awe-inspiring scene of trees that looked like they'd been plucked from a fantastical children's book, perfectly preserved in a layer of snow and ice.
Happiest Country
Finland had only been my home for less than a day, yet the wonder of this place was already seeping into my soul. Then, catching a glimpse of reindeer grazing amidst the snow, it felt like my happiness meter had suddenly been turned way, way up.
So, how does Finland manage to repeatedly snatch that "Happiest Country" title? The World Happiness Report, produced by several renowned research institutions, takes a direct approach. Rather than attempting some complex external measurement, the report simply asks citizens across the globe to rate their lives on a scale of 0 to 10. It then uses these responses, averaged over a three-year period, to determine the overall rankings.
The report also explores factors that seem to influence these scores, things like GDP, social support systems, healthy life expectancy, freedom of choice, generosity, and a lack of government corruption. In 2021-2023, Finns scored their lives remarkably high – an average of 7.741. That put them a whole point above the United States and a massive six points higher than Afghanistan, the lowest-ranked country.
The Quest for Authentic Joy in Lapland
Economist Jeffery Sachs offered this explanation in a CNBC documentary: "The idea is a good balance of life."
Naturally, articles trying to dissect Finland's "happiness secret" pop up with each new publication of the report. Psychologists point to social trust experiments, the tourism boards talk up saunas and the Northern Lights... the usual suspects.
Of course, wanting to understand and replicate happiness is a basic human instinct. But as I dug deeper into the topic, I started to believe happiness was far more complex than any single, definable element. I'd arrived in Finland determined to find what made it so special. My plan? Seek out nature, experience the culture, savor the food, and let myself truly be present.
Finding Happiness in the Everyday Life of Lapland
The sun hadn't been up long, but as we drove away from the airport toward the town of Levi, it was already casting a golden glow across the landscape. With only a few hours of daylight to work with, Levi Ski Resort was bustling with locals and visitors, all keen to make the most of the short day.
While I'd been dreaming of those epic landscapes that had drawn me to Lapland, I was quickly learning that it was the rhythm of everyday Finnish life that truly set the stage for happiness. There was a palpable sense of purpose as people started their days, not a frantic rush, but a calm determination.
Instead of a mad commute packed with traffic and car horns, I saw skiers and snowboarders gliding down the mountain toward the base, ready to start their day on the slopes. Parents calmly walked hand-in-hand with their children. Even the dogs seemed content in the brisk air.
This focus on appreciating the simple joys of life was something I could feel in my own body as well. My Colorado life of overstuffed schedules and constant digital connection felt very far away. In that moment, my happiness came from breathing the crisp air and marveling at the way the sunrise painted the snowy peaks with a vibrant pink.
Image Credit - Global Times
Nature: Lapland’s Elixir of Life in Finland
After our short drive to Levi, Topher and I set about exploring our home base for the next several days. The ski town felt charming, but the real action was all around us. Kilometers and kilometers of groomed Nordic ski trails snaked through forests and across frozen lakes, beckoning us to venture out. And we weren't the only ones. Despite the cold and the rapidly approaching darkness, locals and tourists alike seemed determined to make the most of every bit of daylight.
We saw everything from traditional skiers to couples snowshoeing to families walking their dogs. Snowmobilers occasionally passed by, their vehicles trailing a swirl of white in their wake. Up on the mountain itself, the downhill slopes hummed with the lift system, carrying people in ski gear toward the top. Despite all this activity, I felt an overwhelming sense of tranquility. The natural beauty of Lapland had a calming effect – the snow seemed to soften any harsh sounds, creating a peacefulness that was almost tangible.
That first afternoon, we bundled up and tentatively tried cross-country skiing on a trail that wound directly behind our Airbnb. The process of gliding along the groomed snow felt both foreign and instantly addictive. We made our way slowly out into the open and stopped at a frozen lake. All around us, the trees stood completely still, as if frozen in time. The sun's final rays made the forest glow, and I knew, without a doubt, that there was nowhere else I'd rather be in that moment.
Finding Roots in the Heritage of Lapland
On day two, eager to learn more about the unique region we were exploring, we headed to Samiland. This cultural site and exhibition center is located right in the heart of Levi Ski Resort and is dedicated to the Sami, an Indigenous group whose traditional territory spans northern Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia.
Inside, we discovered an extensive exhibit delving into Sami culture, history, and traditions. We learned about reindeer herding – not just a relic of Lapland's past, but a thriving, essential part of life today. Reindeer are integral to Sami culture and remain deeply intertwined with their livelihoods.
We were struck by how the Indigenous culture was so beautifully woven into the modern narrative of Levi. This stood in sharp contrast to my experiences in the United States, where Native history often feels like an uncomfortable, silenced layer beneath the present. Finland seemed to genuinely honor the cultural heritage of the land.
Flavors of Lapland: An Intimate Symphony of the Land
Later that night, we dined at Saamen Kammi, a traditional Sami restaurant tucked below ground in an enchanting hut. Seated on reindeer hides in a circular room surrounding a central hearth, we were treated to a feast of foraged foods, a concept sadly confined to the domain of ultra-high-end restaurants in many other parts of the world. Here, eating locally was simply a way of life.
As we tucked into steaming salmon soup and tender, flavorful hunks of reindeer meat, we learned about the deep connection between Sami cuisine and the surrounding land. The rich flavor of the food, so intimately derived from the environment around us, was unlike anything I'd tasted before. Even after years of travel, I found Finland surprising me at every turn.
Lapland: The Wonder of the Northern Lights & the Magic of Sauna
By this point, I'd nearly forgotten that one of the main reasons I'd come to Finnish Lapland was for a chance to glimpse the Northern Lights. With each incredible ski run and delicious meal, the focus had naturally shifted to simply soaking in the atmosphere of the place itself.
Witnessing the Aurora in Lapland, Finland
But, as if on cue, on the third night, I received an alert from my Aurora Forecast app. Rushing out in excitement, I confirmed it – a faint hint of green danced across the sky. It was subtle, but unmistakable. We scrambled to the top of the fell, where the skies were darker and clearer. The longer I stared, the stronger the show became. Ribbons of green rippled and flowed, their movement so unlike anything I'd ever witnessed. The spectacle was so mesmerizing that I nearly forgot the brutal cold while I gawked upward. For about 20 minutes, we stood spellbound before the clouds rolled in, obscuring the display.
Embracing Lapland Finnish Sauna Culture Fully
That night, after returning to our warm Airbnb, it was time for another quintessential Finnish experience: sauna. Sauna culture is profoundly entrenched here, even earning a spot on UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list. After our adventures outdoors, stepping into the steaming heat felt like a reward. My tense muscles unraveled, my mind finally quieted down. In the confined space of the sauna, a deep sense of peace washed over me, as though the day's experiences and awe-inspiring beauty were truly sinking in.
The Finnish Emphasis on Education in Lapland
Despite the captivating beauty and endless outdoor adventures, as a former teacher, I couldn't travel through Finland without paying attention to its much-lauded education system. Finnish schools repeatedly rank among the best in the world, and for good reasons that go far beyond standardized tests.
Finnish children don't start formal schooling until age seven, with an initial emphasis on play-based exploration. Even in older grades, homework is scarce for younger kids. This progressive approach results in students consistently outperforming their global peers on international assessments, clearly proving the effectiveness of the system.
One morning in Levi, we lingered over breakfast in a cozy cafe. A young family sat nearby, and I was charmed by their well-behaved toddler. No tantrums or demands, just peaceful engagement with a set of simple tiles. Later, when he began to fidget, his parents' response wasn't a screen or scolding, but patient encouragement to continue his quiet play. This simple interaction highlighted a significant difference from similar scenarios I'd seen back home.
Lapland Celebrates Everyday Experiences in Finland
The next day, a blizzard raged, confining us mostly indoors. We took advantage of the pause to wander through Levi, ducking into shops and soaking up the charm of the small town. We found ourselves at Restaurant Riihi, drawn in by a cozy glow and the promise of a warm meal.
Finnish Joy in Life's Simple Moments
Inside, we settled beside a window and ordered coffee. Candles flickered, creating a safe haven against the gray weather outside. We lingered, observing the locals around us and enjoying the simple pleasure of a long, leisurely lunch. It struck me that Finns appreciate these kinds of ordinary moments, elevating the everyday into something beautiful. And perhaps this is yet another ingredient in their recipe for happiness.
After the storm passed, leaving the town blanketed in fresh snow, we stepped back out into the now brilliant sunshine. The crisp air and glittering landscape seemed to make everyone around us beam just a little brighter. That day, I started to see that this deep appreciation for life's simple joys wasn't just an individual trait, but something woven into the fabric of Finnish society.
Finland's Commitment to Equality
It's difficult to discuss the concept of happiness without delving into equality. Finland's dedication to this principle is deeply ingrained. This is reflected in their tax policy, schools, healthcare, and a general lack of ostentatious displays of wealth. For 15 consecutive years, Finland has received the top ranking for gender equality by the World Economic Forum's Global Gender Gap Report.
While my brief time in Lapland was just a mere glimpse of life in Finland, the overall feeling was one of general contentment. It was as though everyone's fundamental needs were met, creating a society with less reason for discontent. I didn't witness the polarizing extremes of wealth and poverty that sadly exist in many countries around the world. Finland felt like a place where everyone had a decent chance.
Nature Heals
I've always thought of myself as an outdoorsy person, but even I was surprised by the way Finland worked its way into my soul. It began subtly, with the simple pleasure of breathing fresh air and taking in breathtaking scenery. But with each passing day, my mind began to slow down, matching the pace set by the natural world. The overwhelming input I was used to dealing with back home began to fade.
The snow had a remarkable muffling effect. Instead of a constant hum of traffic and sirens, I started to notice the gentle whistle of the wind or the crunch of my own footsteps as something special. As I learned to quiet my frantic brain, the restorative magic of the Lapland landscape took over. Only then did I truly understand how vital this connection was to the Finnish way of life.
So, Does Finland Deserve Its Happiness Crown?
As our time in Lapland drew to a close, there was no question in my mind - yes, Finland does deserve its accolades. Of course, the country isn't perfect, and there's always a degree of subjectivity involved when measuring something as indefinable as happiness. But there are clearly foundational elements of Finnish society that work in tandem to foster a sense of well-being: a deep connection to nature, an outstanding education system, a commitment to equality, and a focus on appreciating life's simple moments.
While Finland's small size and relative homogeneity make perfect replication difficult, there's much to glean from their example. For me, this journey wasn't about finding a list of things to recreate back home in Colorado, but rather about mindset. I came away with a new appreciation for slowing down, finding peace in the present, and getting outside – no matter the temperature. And who knows? Maybe I'll start working my way toward that Finnish sauna experience after all…
Happiness Isn't About Extremes
Before arriving in Finland, I admit to having held a preconceived notion. I envisioned a country where stoic, unemotional people withstood harsh conditions yet somehow retained a sense of deep contentment. In my mind, happiness was a quiet, subdued state.
What I discovered couldn't have been further from reality. Yes, the Finns I encountered were calm and grounded, but they were also warm, friendly, and genuinely happy to share their country. Laughter rang through cozy cafes and shouts of gleeful children slid down snowy slopes alongside adults.
It made me realize that happiness isn't about extremes – it's not an endless state of elated joy, but rather a deep-rooted foundation of peace and security that lets true joy shine through more easily. While it's tempting to look for "happiness hacks" or focus on individual elements of Finnish life to emulate, I started to see it as a holistic approach stemming from numerous interconnected factors.
The Simple Power of "Lagom" (and Other Words to Live By)
One concept I found particularly intriguing was "lagom." This Swedish word, used in Finland as well, has no exact English translation but embodies the idea of "just the right amount," or a middle-ground approach to life. This seems to be reflected in everything from portion sizes to social expectations. It's about avoiding excess and finding a balance that fosters contentment.
Another Finnish word that resonated with me was "sisu." It signifies a blend of determination, grit, and resilience in the face of challenges. I saw sisu reflected in the way locals dealt with the harsh winter. They didn't just endure the cold and darkness, they embraced the unique opportunities it presented. They found ways to thrive despite the difficult environment, and perhaps that struggle is a core reason why they so deeply appreciate the moments of natural beauty and simple pleasures surrounding them.
On our last day in Levi, amidst the bustle of packing and preparing for departure, I found myself drawn back to the fell one more time. My flight wouldn't be departing until the next morning, giving us time for a final ski run and a few last moments to take it all in.
As the gondola carried me towards the summit, I felt a surge of gratitude wash over me. Not just for the stunning views and incredible experiences, but for the lessons I'd learned that went far beyond the realm of a typical vacation.
What Does "Happiness" Really Mean?
Of course, it's important to acknowledge that even in the "happiest country," not everyone is happy all of the time. Life holds challenges everywhere, and Finland is no exception. Mental health issues exist, people struggle financially, and not everyone embraces the long, dark winters. But, there seems to be a general societal underpinning here that creates a more fertile ground for happiness to flourish. It's more about a baseline resilience and contentment than fleeting joy.
Perhaps the most important thing I realized is that the pursuit of "happiness" can, itself, create a sense of dissatisfaction. Aiming for a constant state of elation sets you up for disappointment. This trip reminded me that true contentment arises from finding peace in the present moment, appreciating the ordinary, and allowing yourself to feel the full spectrum of human emotions.
What's Next?
As I buckled myself into my seat on the plane for the long journey home, I couldn't shake the feeling that Finland had forever changed me. Would I ever be able to look at a simple cup of coffee without the cozy glow of a cafe and flickering candles coming to mind? Would I ever sit down to a meal without longing for the rich flavors of foraged ingredients and tender reindeer meat?
More importantly, could I manage to retain the sense of calm the Finnish landscape had instilled? Would I remember to slow down, to savor the simple moments, and to seek out the beauty in my own surroundings, no matter how mundane they might seem in comparison to the dramatic landscapes of Lapland?
Only time will tell. Of course, I can't replicate Finland in the Rocky Mountains. But I can work to embrace the spirit of lagom, to cultivate my own version of sisu, and to make a conscious effort to find the joy in the everyday. I can make more time for nature, even when it's cold and snowy, and allow myself the indulgence of a leisurely coffee break without a packed schedule looming over me.
Finland is a magical place – and yes, it does deserve its crown at the top of the World Happiness Report. But its true gift might not be about easily imitated systems or practices. Instead, it might be in inspiring all of us to reexamine how we approach our own lives, to pursue a deeper kind of happiness built on a solid foundation of well-being, appreciation, and connection.
The Happiness Takeaway
The flight back to Colorado was a blur. Despite my best intentions to stay grounded in the sense of peace I felt leaving Finland, the familiar anxieties of my normal life began to creep back in the instant the plane touched down. The endless stream of notifications, the overpacked to-do list, the noise… it all felt like an assault to my newly-calibrated senses.
The stark transition left me pondering the true practicality of lasting change. Can a five-day trip to an extraordinary place genuinely shift your baseline happiness over the long haul? Was this just going to become a distant, pleasant memory like countless other vacations, leaving me no better off than when I started?
It's a question I likely won't have a definitive answer to for a long time. But in the weeks since returning home, I've been making a conscious effort to hold onto what Finland taught me. Some days are more successful than others, but overall, I feel a significant difference.
Changes, Big and Small
I've started with the more tangible things. I'm seeking out the outdoors more intentionally, even if it's just a short walk after dinner when I'd normally collapse on the couch. I've started paying much closer attention to the quality of my food, not for weight-loss purposes, but simply to enjoy fresh, unprocessed ingredients like those I experienced in Finland. I linger over my morning coffee instead of gulping it down while multitasking.
These may seem like minor shifts, but cumulatively, they're making a difference. My sleep has improved, and I'm finding it easier to silence the constant, buzzing chatter in my head. I'm less reactive to minor stressors and better able to discern what actually merits a strong response versus what can be dismissed without losing my cool.
The deeper changes are even harder to measure, but equally profound. I'm working on replacing my default state of "busyness" with a greater sense of presence. It's about allowing moments to stretch, without the nagging feeling that I should be accomplishing something more. I'm learning to embrace the mundane, finding joy in the completion of simple tasks done well, rather than always focusing on the next big goal.
Gratitude as a Practice
Gratitude isn't necessarily something I associate with Finland, but my time there reignited my appreciation for so many things I'd been taking for granted. Now, I try to start and end each day with a mental inventory of three things, no matter how small, that I'm genuinely grateful for. Whether it's a shared laugh with Topher, a delicious cup of tea, or a stunning sunset, this practice has become essential in shifting my mindset.
Perhaps surprisingly, I've found this renewed sense of gratitude has made me more aware of inequalities and injustices around the world and within my own community. I'm recognizing that my baseline state of relative security is a privilege, and it fuels a desire to work towards creating a more equitable society where everyone has similar chances for basic well-being.
The Lingering Effect of a Dream Trip
Will the magic of Finland fade over time? Undoubtedly, to some degree. It's impossible to maintain that vacation state of wonder indefinitely, nor would I want to entirely lose my inherent drive and ambition. But what I hope will remain is the feeling I had on that final ski run on the fell in Levi – a deep acceptance of the present moment and a genuine sense of contentment with my life exactly as it is, even amidst the imperfections.
Finland didn't just make me a happier person. It made me a better person. More mindful, more present, and, yes, more grateful for the life I'm fortunate enough to lead. It opened my eyes to the often-overlooked keys to happiness: connection to nature, focus on the fundamentals, appreciation for the ordinary, and a striving for equality that lifts everyone.
While I may never find myself living in a log cabin above the Arctic Circle, I now carry a piece of Finland with me wherever I go. And I truly believe that's the greatest souvenir of all.
