Discover Lanzarote Wines: Rising from the Ashes
The Volcanic Vineyards of Lanzarote: A Story of Triumph Against the Odds
Lanzarote, the easternmost of the Canary Islands, presents a sight unlike any other. Its landscape, pitted with conical depressions, paints a stark and textured canvas upon the jet-black earth. Yet, within these seemingly desolate hollows lie the secrets of Lanzarote's resilient spirit – its vibrant vineyards, a testament to the island's capacity for renewal and adaptation.
Nicknamed "Volcano Island," Lanzarote boasts a fiery history shaped by its dramatic geography. Among its combustible neighbors in the archipelago, Lanzarote stands apart, bearing the scars and rewards of centuries of volcanic activity. While its landscape conjures visions of a lunar world or perhaps even a glimpse of Earth's primeval past, life persists against all odds.
The most recent eruptions in Timanfaya National Park ended in 1824, but it was the cataclysmic episode starting in 1730 that forever transformed the island. For six long years, lava mercilessly reshaped Lanzarote, engulfing villages and leaving famine in its wake. Many islanders were forced to seek a new life elsewhere. Yet, even from the ashes of disaster, a gift emerged - a thick blanket of picón, or volcanic ash, left behind by the receding inferno.
While the Canary Islands have produced wine since the 15th century, Lanzarote's residents initially relied on their vineyards solely for personal consumption. However, the volcanic cataclysm of the 1730s rendered the soil unsuitable for the crops that once sustained them, thrusting the islanders into an era of unprecedented challenge.
Survival through Ingenuity
Fueled by an indomitable will to survive, the resilient people of Lanzarote turned their hardship into an opportunity. Clearing the picón, they discovered that grapevines could not only withstand the altered soil but actually flourish. The volcanic ash held an unexpected secret - a key to unlocking the island's agricultural potential.
Lanzarote's unique predicament sets it apart from traditional wine regions. Annual rainfall is scarce, sometimes catastrophically so, and the island faces relentless trade winds and harsh calimas - dust storms that shroud the island in an otherworldly haze. The solution lay in the very landscape that once threatened their livelihood.
"The sudden devastation of their fields forced them to rethink everything," explains Nereida Pérez, technical coordinator of the Lanzarote wines' regulatory council. They devised the hoyos - conical hollows meticulously excavated in the earth. The hardy grapevines were placed deep within these depressions and layered with picón, while low, semicircular walls built from lava stones guarded the exposed north-eastern side.
Nature's Cunning Design
This design was an act of extraordinary resourcefulness. The hoyo's shape channels and conserves precious rainwater and dew, protecting it from the relentless sun. The picón itself acts as a remarkable sponge, absorbing moisture from the very air and regulating the temperature of the soil. Moreover, the protective walls offer the vines some shelter from the harsh winds while ensuring the structural integrity of the hoyo.
Thus, from the heart of fiery devastation arose a testament to human resilience - a unique wine region sculpted by necessity. "They were forced to innovate and possessed an extraordinary ability to adapt," affirms Elisa Ludeña, the young and talented winemaker at El Grifo. Founded in 1775, El Grifo is the oldest winery in the Canaries and holds a place among Spain's top ten oldest wineries. Today, it's one of 28 active wineries thriving on the island.
The Lanzarote Grapes
Malvasía Volcánica, a white grape unique to the archipelago, thrives on Lanzarote, dominating 60% of the island's wine production. The remaining output largely consists of a blend of white varieties, including Listán Blanco, Vijariego Blanco, and Moscatel de Alejandría, complemented by the red Listán Negro and Syrah. Remarkably, some of the island's vines are centuries old, having miraculously escaped the devastation of the phylloxera blight that ravaged European vineyards in the 19th century.
Considering Lanzarote's position near the 30th parallel north, its success as a wine region might seem unlikely at first glance. But paradoxically, its volcanic nature and unforgiving winds actually ensure its grapes produce fresh and high-quality wines. Award-winning sommelier Josep Roca of El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, confirms, "Phylloxera doesn't do well in the volcanic soil, which allows the vines to stay healthy and yield fruit with a freshness that defies the semi-desert climate."
The Labor of Love: Tending the Vineyards of Lanzarote
The beauty of Lanzarote's vineyards lies not only in their unlikely existence but also in the profound connection between the land and those who nurture it. Winemaking here is not simply a trade; it's a way of life, a testament to the human capacity to overcome adversity through hard work and meticulous care.
The creation and maintenance of the hoyos demand a staggering amount of manual labor. Volcanic landscapes don't easily yield to machinery, requiring every step to be performed by hand. Growers navigate the narrow paths threading through their vineyards, carefully maneuvering in and out of each depression to tend to their precious vines.
When harvest time arrives in late July, the intensity of their labor reaches its peak. Under the scorching 27°C heat, pickers gather the ripe grapes, filling small crates that rest precariously on their shoulders. They undertake repeated journeys on foot to deposit the heavy loads into trucks often hundreds of meters away. Even modern vineyards rely on the backbreaking efforts of these dedicated workers.
"Growing wine grapes in Lanzarote is less like farming and more akin to gardening on a vast scale," explains Ludeña. This unique bond between the winemaker and the vineyard has profound implications for the quality of the wines produced. El Grifo, as an example, sources grapes from its own vineyards but also depends on collaborations with small, local growers.
Preserving Lanzarote’s Wine Heritage: A Blend of Legacy and Innovation
"A first-rate wine comes from understanding the nuances and needs of the grapes themselves," says Ludeña. "That's why we have a single-vineyard wine called Finca Ramón, named after the dedicated grower who cultivates those grapes."
Winemaker Daniel Martín, a Lanzarote native, shares the profound respect for the labor that goes into each bottle. He spent a significant part of his career at the renowned Vega Sicilia winery on the Spanish mainland but ultimately returned to his roots. "The love and self-sacrifice put into this work – it's humbling. These folks are the true keepers of Lanzarote's wine heritage," Martín affirms. His winery, Bodegas Los Bermejos, was established in 2001 and places a strong emphasis on collaborating with its 300 growers.
Martín, alongside Ludeña, symbolizes a new generation of winemakers who recognize the crucial interplay between legacy and innovation. The average Lanzarote grape grower is 70 years old, and securing the future of the industry hinges on attracting a younger generation willing to embrace this cherished tradition. "The price of grapes has increased significantly in recent years, which is an encouraging step towards recognizing the true value of our growers' work," Ludeña acknowledges.
Martín agrees, expressing hope that "as prices for quality grapes rise, perhaps more young people on the island will see the potential in taking up this mantle and carrying their ancestors' legacy into the future."
Challenges in a Changing Climate
Even with a commitment to preserving the island's unique traditions, Lanzarote's winemakers face significant challenges, particularly those brought on by climate change. Typically, the island receives most of its rainfall in the winter months. However, recent years have witnessed a troubling decline in precipitation. Moreover, according to data from Spain's Meteorological Agency (AEMET), Lanzarote's average annual rainfall between 1981-2010 was only 111mm – one of the lowest in all of Spain. The island recorded even less in 2020, an alarming signal of the increasingly arid conditions.
"We've seen so little rain this year, and the calima seems to be happening much more often," Pérez observes with concern. These shifts pose a major threat to Lanzarote's distinctive viticultural practices. Yet, the story of this island is defined by overcoming unthinkable obstacles. "When you witness the struggle of these vines, fighting to survive with such little water in a hostile environment, it's incredibly humbling," Ludeña reflects.
Sustainability and Respect for Tradition
In a world increasingly focused on environmentally sustainable practices, Lanzarote's winemakers place a strong emphasis on conservation efforts. Water-saving techniques are vital, and many wineries prioritize low-intervention methods and recycled water. Organic and biodynamic farming practices are also gaining ground, as producers seek to protect their unique terroir and promote biodiversity.
This commitment to preserving the land serves both the environment and the longevity of the region's distinctive wine styles. Tourism is also playing a significant role in shining a spotlight on Lanzarote's remarkable wine story. Visitors embark on guided tours of the dramatic landscape, bearing witness to the unique hoyos and the relentless labor that sustains them.
Many wineries, like El Grifo and Los Bermejos, open their doors for tastings and educational pairings. Guests savor the distinctive flavors of Lanzarote's volcanic wines, a true expression of place, and gain an appreciation for the island's rich viticultural history. This blossoming wine tourism industry brings well-deserved attention to the region and creates an additional source of income for local producers.
Recognition and Legacy
Recognition on an international stage has also given Lanzarote's wines a powerful boost. Recent accolades and critical acclaim from respected wine publications have validated the unwavering dedication of the island's winemakers and growers. In 2019, a Malvasía Volcánica from Bodegas El Grifo was named one of Wine Spectator magazine's Top 100 Wines of the Year, earning an impressive 92-point score. Additionally, Bodegas Los Bermejos has consistently garnered recognition for its unique and expressive wines.
Experiencing Lanzarote’s Wine Country
A trip to Lanzarote's wine region leaves an enduring impression, transporting visitors to a place where past and present coexist in captivating harmony. Here, in the stark beauty of the volcanic landscape, you'll find wineries steeped in tradition alongside those ushering in a new era. Yet, there's one thread they all share – a profound respect for the land and a deep understanding of how to unlock its potential.
La Geria: The Soul of Lanzarote Wine
Lanzarote's wine story reaches its zenith in La Geria. Its dramatically sculpted landscape, a sea of jet-black picón dotted with countless meticulously sculpted hoyos, is a visually striking testament to human resilience. The best way to experience La Geria is simply to hop in a car and explore. Well-maintained roads and relatively short distances make it easy to visit several wineries in a single day.
Wineries: Legacy and Innovation
A visit to El Grifo, the island's oldest winery, offers a fascinating glimpse into Lanzarote's winemaking heritage. Its museum provides valuable context, tracing the region's history and traditions. After immersing yourself in the past, enjoy a tasting in their modern tasting room, the perfect space to sample award-winning wines that showcase the island's unique terroir.
For a taste of the more contemporary vibe shaping the island's wine scene, head to Bodegas Los Bermejos. Here, younger vines produce vibrant wines that blend traditional techniques with modern influences. Their minimalist tasting room, with its clean lines and dramatic views of the surrounding landscape, adds an extra element of enjoyment to the experience.
If your palate leans towards the avant-garde, Bodegas Stratvs is an unforgettable stop. Known for its daring winemaking methods, the sleek architecture and café-like atmosphere offer a striking contrast to the ancient landscape outside. Be sure to try their distinctive, complex wines for a truly unique tasting experience.
A Culinary Adventure
Beyond the vineyards, Lanzarote offers a delightful exploration for the food enthusiast. Fresh, locally-caught seafood reigns supreme, reflecting the island's connection to the sea. But don't ignore other culinary gems like the iconic papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes), the fiery mojo sauce, and local cheeses rich with the flavor of the island.
Many wineries feature superb on-site restaurants, showcasing the best of local cuisine, often with a modern twist. But if you're ready to venture outside the vineyards, head to Timanfaya National Park and try El Diablo Restaurant. Here, chefs expertly grill succulent meats over volcanic heat, a uniquely Lanzarote dining experience that taps into the fiery essence of the island.
For an oceanfront culinary adventure, seek out the charming village of El Golfo on the island's rugged, southwestern coastline. Restaurants like Costa Azul or Bogavante offer spectacular seafood with views that are almost as delicious as the food itself.
Staying Amidst the Vines
For a completely immersive experience, consider staying near the heart of the wine country. Finca Malvasía, along the northern stretch of La Geria, offers beautiful apartments situated within a restored 18th-century farmhouse. Its lush gardens and swimming pool, sculpted within the austerity of the surrounding landscape, feel like a celebration of human perseverance.
For classic hotel elegance in a historic setting, consider Hotel Palacio Ico in the town of Teguise. This meticulously restored 17th century mansion blends elegant contemporary comforts with the charm of yesteryear.
Beyond the Wine
Of course, Lanzarote's unique appeal extends far beyond its remarkable wines. Timanfaya National Park, with its starkly beautiful volcanic formations, offers an otherworldly journey through the planet's fiery origins. Additionally, there's Jameos del Agua, a series of lava tubes transformed into a unique concert venue and garden. This artistic marvel, designed by the legendary César Manrique, is an example of how islanders have found endless creative inspiration in their dramatic surroundings.
If you're seeking a break from exploring, consider a catamaran trip. Several companies offer excursions around the island, some even with opportunities to spot dolphins or whales. And of course, no trip to Lanzarote is complete without exploring its beaches. From the secluded, crescent bays of Papagayo to the windswept surfer's haven of Famara, the island offers a stretch of sand for every desire.
Leaving a Piece of Your Heart in Lanzarote
When your unforgettable trip to Lanzarote draws to a close, don't be sad. Preserve the memories and the essence of the island by stocking up on bottles of Lanzarote's unique volcanic wines. Most wineries offer the convenience of directly purchasing their products. And once home, you may even find a selection of Lanzarote wines at specialty wine shops. Each sip will transport your senses back to this remarkable island and the extraordinary people who bring these inimitable wines to fruition.
Important Information for Your Trip
Getting there: Lanzarote has an international airport (ACE) with direct flights from many European cities.
Best time to visit: Lanzarote enjoys year-round sunshine, but the spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) offer the most pleasant weather for outdoor activities. If you are keen to witness the grape harvest, late July is the time to visit.
Getting around: Renting a car is ideal for exploring the island's vineyards and attractions at your own pace. However, if you prefer not to drive, several companies offer guided wine tours, and taxis are easily available.
Language: The official language is Spanish, but English is widely understood in tourist areas.
Understanding Lanzarote's Wines
The volcanic terroir of Lanzarote wines, combined with the relentless labor of its winemakers, produces wines that are truly distinctive. Visitors keen to delve deeper into the unique character of these bottles will gain new appreciation for the island's remarkable wine story.
A Focus on White Wines
While Lanzarote produces both white and red wines, the vast majority of production is focused on its white varieties. Malvasía Volcánica takes center stage, known for its vibrant aromatics and refreshing acidity. Expect notes of citrus, green apple, and jasmine, complemented by a subtle saline minerality. These crisp, easy-to-drink wines are a delight on their own or pair wonderfully with fresh, local seafood dishes.
Other white varieties like Listán Blanco and Moscatel de Alejandría often play supporting roles, bringing their own nuances to the final blends. Listán Blanco tends to offer a slightly weightier texture and hints of stone fruits, while Moscatel, as expected, is known for its signature floral aromas.
Discoveries in Red
Although fewer in number, Lanzarote wines also produces noteworthy red wines. Listán Negro is the primary red grape, with many wineries also incorporating Syrah into their blends. These reds offer a lighter style than many mainland Spanish wines, showcasing bright cherry and plum flavors alongside intriguing peppery spice notes. For a more structured and complex red wine experience, look for those with a touch of barrel aging.
Dry vs. Sweet
Lanzarote produces both dry and sweet wines. Dry versions are the most prevalent, offering the crisp freshness that perfectly suits the island's climate and cuisine. However, you'll also encounter naturally sweet wines, typically those primarily made from Moscatel or Malvasía Volcáncia grapes. These can range from medium-sweet to luxuriously rich dessert wines, with intense aromatics and flavors of honey, dried fruit, and orange blossom.
The Influence of Tradition and Innovation
Many traditional bodegas in Lanzarote wines focus on blends of different grape varieties, offering balanced and versatile wines. However, a growing number of winemakers are also exploring single-varietal bottlings, allowing them to highlight the unique expression of each grape. Experimentation is part of the island's new era, with some producers using extended aging or incorporating native yeasts to add greater complexity and intrigue to their wines.
The Importance of Wine Tasting
One of the best ways to discover and appreciate the diverse styles of Lanzarote wines is to visit several wineries and participate in guided tastings. Knowledgeable staff can offer insights into the specific grape varieties, winemaking techniques, and the terroir that shapes each bottle. Many wineries also offer food and wine pairing experiences, allowing you to explore firsthand how their wines complement the flavors of the island's cuisine.
Exploring Beyond Lanzarote
Even with its relatively small size, Lanzarote boasts a surprising range of microclimates and subtle variations in the composition of the volcanic soil. Wineries in different parts of the island often produce wines with their own distinctive personality. A visit to both the north and the south of La Geria, as well as venturing beyond to vineyards closer to the coast, will reward the curious traveler with a deeper understanding of the island's diverse terroir.
The Rise of Tourism
As word of Lanzarote's unique wines spreads, wine tourism is playing an increasingly significant role in the island's economy. This influx of visitors has provided a welcome boost for local producers, allowing them to invest in their vineyards and wineries. Many wineries have expanded their facilities, offering more comprehensive tours, tastings, and on-site amenities that enhance the overall visitor experience.
Moreover, the island's government has also recognized the importance of promoting wine tourism. Efforts include developing educational programs, partnering with travel agencies, and supporting the creation of dedicated wine routes and itineraries for visitors to explore at their own pace.
A Promising Future
Looking ahead, Lanzarote's wine industry faces a future marked by both opportunity and challenge. Rising temperatures and water scarcity due to climate change require adaptation and a conscious commitment to sustainable practices. Fortunately, the island's winemaking community, known for its resilience and innovative spirit, is actively exploring drought-resistant grape varieties and implementing water conservation techniques.
Yet, there's also a sense of optimism fueled by the increasing recognition of Lanzarote's special place within the world of wine. As more consumers discover the island's captivating story and unique wines, demand is increasing. This opens possibilities for further investment in sustainable viticulture while also ensuring a viable future for this cherished tradition.
A Legacy Worth Preserving
The allure of Lanzarote's wine story lies not solely in the unique flavors of its bottles but in the extraordinary bond between humans and the natural world. It's a testament to adaptability, ingenuity, and an unwavering respect for tradition that spans centuries. Visitors to this unlikely wine region leave with a sense of awe, not only for the dramatic landscape but also for the people who, generation after generation, have kept the legacy of these vineyards alive.
However, the future of Lanzarote's wine industry depends not only on celebrating its past but also on concerted action. The challenges posed by climate change and the need to attract a new generation of growers and winemakers call for conscious choices, both on the island and beyond.
Supporting Sustainability
As a traveler with an appreciation for Lanzarote's wines, you can play a role in supporting sustainable practices and ensuring the longevity of this extraordinary wine region. When choosing Lanzarote wines, seek out producers who actively emphasize water conservation methods, organic or biodynamic farming, and a commitment to minimizing their environmental impact.
Furthermore, when visiting the island, consider opting for wineries that offer informative tours with a focus on their history and their approach to sustainability. By engaging with these producers and expressing your interest in their practices, you send a clear message about the importance of responsible winemaking, both on the island and beyond.
Spreading the Word
Sharing your Lanzarote wines discoveries with friends and family is one of the most impactful ways to generate support for these remarkable Lanzarote wines and the people behind them. Host a tasting party, featuring both dry and sweet styles paired with local foods, and share the extraordinary story of the island's vineyards with your guests.
By showcasing the unique character of Lanzarote wines, you not only become an ambassador for the island but also contribute to raising awareness about the importance of supporting smaller wine regions with a rich heritage and commitment to sustainable viticulture.
Investing in the Future
As the price of grapes from Lanzarote wines increases, it creates an incentive for younger generations on the island to consider a future in winemaking, either as growers or at the helm of wineries. When you pay more for these wines, you aren't merely purchasing a luxury product; you're investing in a community, a tradition, and a way of life that deserves to be preserved and passed on.
Furthermore, wine tourism fosters direct economic benefits for Lanzarote wines. By visiting wineries, participating in tastings, dining at on-site restaurants, and staying in local accommodations nestled amidst the vineyards, you're contributing to the island's economy and demonstrating the value of its unique viticultural heritage.
A Call to Action
The next time you're browsing the wine shelves, seek out the distinctive bottles from Lanzarote wines. Look for names like El Grifo, Bodegas Los Bermejos, Bodegas Stratvs, and the many other dedicated producers who cultivate their vineyards in defiance of the odds. As you uncork their wines and savor the unique expression of this volcanic terroir, remember the faces of the growers, the calloused hands tending to the vines, and the centuries of tradition woven into each precious drop.
With every sip, you become part of the ongoing narrative, a testament to the enduring human spirit and the transformative potential that lies between the earth and the vine. The fate of Lanzarote's vineyards rests not only in the hands of its islanders but also in the choices made by those who appreciate the fruits of their extraordinary labor. Supporting these wines is to support resilience, tradition, and the endur*ing belief that even in the most unlikely places, something truly remarkable can flourish.
The Essence of an Island
Lanzarote's wines tell a story far greater than the sum of their aromas and flavors. They are a testament to centuries of perseverance and a profound connection between people and their land. In their depth and complexity, we taste the volcanic heat, the tireless human touch, and the salty breath of the sea. These are not just wines; they are the essence of an island, a testament to the relentless pursuit of possibility.
The next time you raise a glass of Lanzarote wine, let it be both a celebration and a promise – a celebration of the island's unique spirit and a promise to honor its legacy by supporting sustainable winemaking and the preservation of its precious terroir for generations to come.
