Why Regenerative Fashion Is the Future
Why Regenerative Fashion Symbolizes the New Luxury
Fashion made from sustainably grown fibers, traceable right back to their source, could be the solution to the climate-damaging cycle of fast fashion. However, will this trend ever become affordable for the average consumer?
Imagine this: Kendall Roy, the privileged heir to a media empire in HBO's Succession, holds court in a dimly lit New York bar. He passionately explains to anyone within earshot that the cashmere of his luxurious sweater comes from Mongolian herders who practice sustainable methods. Roy proclaims that regenerative fashion is the industry's future, and the key to preserving our planet.
This scenario may be fictional, but it's easy to picture. The understated luxury trend, which surged in popularity last year and has Roy as its figurehead, isn't about flashy logos. Rather, it's about subtle indicators like premium fabrics, impeccable tailoring, and fibers with a traceable, ethical origin. Unsurprisingly, the ultra-wealthy are gravitating towards brands committed to protecting the landscapes where materials like cashmere, silk, and cotton are cultivated.
In a world facing the rapid consequences of climate change, what says "status" more than a garment made from merino wool sourced from a sheep farm so rich with native trees and grasses that it actually absorbs more carbon than it produces?
Regenerative Fashion: Global Impact and Economic Potential
Nokomai Station, nestled on New Zealand's South Island, paints a picture of this ideal. Merino sheep roam freely across 40,000 hectares (99,000 acres) – nearly four times the size of Paris. This station is one of about 460 sheep farms participating in the New Zealand Merino Company's regenerative wool program, ZQRX. These sheep yield some of the globe's finest wool within a mountainous landscape managed using regenerative agriculture principles – biodiversity restoration and minimal intervention to cultivate healthy soil. In fact, the farm could easily be mistaken for a stunning AI-generated screensaver.
Regenerative fashion has been a key topic in discussions around lowering fashion's environmental impact for years now. Its principles are taking root globally, from Turkish cotton fields to Chinese hemp farms to Argentinian sheep ranches.
"Many brands are pouring significant investments into supply chains focused on these natural, regenerative materials," says Jocelyn Wilkinson, Boston Consulting Group partner and associate director. Wilkinson co-authored a 2023 report revealing that brands adopting regenerative practices could see an average 6% profit increase within five years.
Luxury Fashion and Regenerative Practices: From Affluence to Accessibility
Loro Piana, the luxury label associated with subtle affluence (remember Kendall Roy's £500 cashmere baseball cap?), has a history of championing raw material sustainability. Similarly, Brunello Cucinelli, favored by real-world billionaires like Mark Zuckerberg and Jeff Bezos, partnered with King Charles's sustainable markets initiative to convert 1,000 hectares of degraded Indian land into regenerative farms. Zegna, a brand so synonymous with cashmere that its recent Milan fashion show featured the material cascading from above, has owned and operated its own Australian sheep farm since 2014.
However, a hefty price tag isn't an automatic guarantee of sustainability. Take the recent investigation into Loro Piana's treatment of herders working with vicuña, a llama-like animal prized for the world's most expensive fiber. This highlights that ethical treatment of laborers is just as vital as care for the land itself.
With this in mind, it's not just the most expensive brands embracing regenerative materials. Slightly more accessible labels like Eileen Fisher, Mara Hoffman, Mother of Pearl, and Another Tomorrow integrate them as well, with prices from around £95 to upwards of £1,000. A tier below, you'll find brands like Icebreaker and Smartwool – the only two Nokomai supplies its wool to – alongside Allbirds and Sheep Inc. However, acquiring regenerative natural fibers at high-street prices is simply not possible.
So, why the cost difference?
According to Megan Meiklejoh, a leader within Land to Market, a program verifying regenerative agriculture, everyone within a regenerative supply chain seeks a premium: "That's generally why farmers engage in these programs – they expect a better return."
A vital and expensive element is ensuring that wool or cotton from a regenerative source remains traceable throughout the entire supply chain. Currently, this means processing the raw materials into yarn in smaller, more isolated batches. "Prices for regenerative materials are higher because the market share is so small," explains Amy Powney, a climate activist and Mother of Pearl's creative director. "By increasing order quantities we can start bringing the prices down."
Experts agree that we don't have the luxury of time. As our climate becomes increasingly volatile, the widespread use of regenerative techniques is fast evolving from a choice to a necessity.
The challenge for the fashion industry, and the world at large, is to take swift action to slash emissions and prevent the worst consequences of climate change. Of course, if projections of 3°C warming materialize by the end of the century, concerns about cashmere baseball caps might be trivial. "Many of the things we take for granted today simply won't be available," states Professor Mark Howden, director of the Australian National University's climate, energy, and disaster solutions institute. This includes those coveted natural fibers, whether regenerative or not.
Regenerative Fashion: Leading Positive Change in the Industry
The stakes couldn't be higher. While the current focus of regenerative fashion centers around luxury, mainstream adoption could change the industry's landscape entirely. "I do think fashion can lead and it can be a really positive force for change," says Powney. "I hope that by the luxury industry adopting regenerative agriculture and consumers understanding why it’s important and what the impact on the planet is, it will filter down."
The ability to purchase clothing that aligns with our values has powerful appeal. In the wake of the Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013, where over 1,100 garment workers died, it sparked a greater awareness of the devastating human cost behind our clothes. Now, a new generation of shoppers is demanding more – not just fair labor practices, but positive environmental impact, too.
"Regenerative fashion is exciting because you feel that by wearing that item, you're not doing anything negative to the environment," says Wilkinson. "It's actually benefiting the supply chain, the environment, and even reversing some of the negative impact on climate."
Whether it's a practical pair of socks or a coveted cashmere sweater, there's a certain satisfaction in knowing your purchase contributes to a greater good. In fact, there's an argument to be made that, in today's world, this might be the most luxurious feeling of all.
Regenerative Agriculture: Strengthening Communities and Creating Sustainable Futures
This potential for positive change isn't exclusive to consumers. Farmers and rural communities stand to benefit from the transition to regenerative techniques as well. On Nokomai Station, the focus is squarely on creating a truly sustainable operation – not just from an environmental perspective, but economically, too. "One thing that I didn’t really anticipate, is the resilience and strength in the community, the way it brings people back to rural areas," says John Perriam, CEO of the New Zealand Merino Company.
Crucially, regenerative models prioritize a respect for local knowledge, fostering a collaborative approach between farmers and brands. Nokomai, for instance, has long-standing relationships with the indigenous Māori and the wisdom they hold regarding the land. It's more than just buying fibers; it's investing in a community-led vision for the future.
The advantages stretch beyond feel-good factors. While there are certainly upfront costs to shifting farming practices, experts believe regenerative systems can ultimately make farms more resilient and profitable. As an example, healthy soils with enhanced biodiversity better withstand extreme weather events like droughts or floods – increasing risks in today's unpredictable climate.
Unfortunately, convincing traditionally-minded farmers to embrace change isn't always seamless. "If your income is on the line, it’s scary to switch to this new way of doing things," says Meiklejoh. "So we have to meet people where they're at." Education becomes crucial, with demonstration farms and peer-to-peer mentoring proving to be powerful tools in promoting widespread adoption.
Regenerative Fashion: Challenges in Verification and the Path to Transformative Change
This underscores the importance of big brands making the leap toward regenerative models. It signals to the industry at large that this shift is viable and sets the stage for a trickle-down effect. "It takes a lot of guts, innovation, risk-taking and also patience," says Meiklejoh of the pioneering steps taken by labels venturing into regenerative fashion.
While the movement is certainly gaining momentum, there are hurdles to overcome. One of the biggest is verification - how do we ensure the wool, cotton, or cashmere we're purchasing truly comes from a verified regenerative farm? Existing organic or Fair Trade certifications are helpful but go only so far in terms of encompassing the full spectrum of regenerative practices.
Several organizations are tackling this challenge. Land to Market, for example, uses Ecological Outcome Verification, a science-based approach focusing on actual improvements to soil health, biodiversity, and water cycles. Other players like the Savory Institute have developed their own standards. However, a lack of a unified, globally recognized system inevitably leads to some confusion.
"There’s a lot of greenwashing in terms of the language being used and what that means in practice," Wilkinson points out. Increased transparency and standardization will be vital to building trust and ensuring consumers aren't misled.
The potential for transformative change is undeniable. Imagine a scenario where the garment you buy helps revitalize degraded landscapes, captures carbon, and enhances biodiversity. In a perfect world, our clothing choices wouldn't just address environmental concerns but would actively improve them.
Regenerative Fashion: Transforming Textiles and Agriculture for a Sustainable Future
"A lot of people think of regenerative agriculture as restoring land back to a healthy state,” says Meiklejoh. "But farmers are now seeing that we can actually get to a point where it’s more resilient than it was in its original undisturbed state.”
While the early focus of regenerative fashion has been on animal fibers, the movement is extending to materials like cotton, linen, and hemp. This is particularly significant given cotton's reputation for intensive water use and pesticide reliance. In Maharashtra, India, farmers are already witnessing positive results with regenerative cotton cultivation - healthier soils, reduced costs, and improved yields even in the face of drought.
Challenges persist, of course. Scaling up regenerative production is no easy task, and it will require significant investment across the supply chain. Furthermore, shifting consumer attitudes toward clothing as something to cherish and maintain, rather than something disposable, will be crucial for long-term impact.
Despite these obstacles, there's cause for optimism. The global regenerative agriculture market, valued at $4.9 billion in 2021, is projected to reach $10.3 billion by 2028, according to a recent report. This reflects growing interest from businesses and investors alike.
"We're at this precipice where brands have realized that they have to make a change towards more sustainable materials and manufacturing processes," says Powney. This, coupled with a consumer base increasingly vocal about ethical fashion, could well be the catalyst the industry needs.
Conclusion
Change isn't simply possible, it's fashionable. It's the power of a luxury item redefined – not by its price tag, but by the positive imprint it leaves on the world. The ultimate fashion statement might actually be a beautifully- made, ethically-sourced garment that contributes to a healthier planet for everyone.
Ultimately, regenerative fashion offers the possibility of guilt-free consumption, an elusive concept within the industry. But can this revolution be accessible to a wider audience, or is it destined to remain an indulgence for the elite?
Only time and a dedicated effort from brands will tell if regenerative materials can ever make their way into our favorite high-street store. However, the potential for profound change is undeniable. A world where the clothes we wear help preserve landscapes, promote biodiversity, and support thriving rural communities is certainly a world worth striving for.
Perhaps the most intriguing element of regenerative fashion is that it challenges our fundamental relationship with our clothing. If a garment embodies a commitment to environmental stewardship, its meaning transcends mere consumption. It becomes an investment into a greater good, blurring the lines between consumer, investor, and environmentalist.
There's also the aspect of longevity. Regenerative materials often come with a premium price. This can motivate a shift in how we view our wardrobes, encouraging the purchase of fewer, higher quality items that we genuinely love and intend to keep for years to come. In this sense, regenerative fashion aligns with the push for a more circular model, where items remain in use for longer periods.
Of course, cost still presents the most significant barrier for widespread adoption. Yet, there's a certain irony in labeling a system designed to protect and restore Earth's resources as "exclusive." Shouldn't access to environmentally conscious fashion be a basic right?
"We talk about luxury now, but if we want to have a future, regenerative is going to have to be the norm," Meiklejoh asserts. This sentiment underscores the urgency of finding solutions to scale up production and drive down costs.
Government subsidies, currently often directed towards conventional farming, could be channeled towards regenerative practices. Furthermore, rethinking our reliance on cheap labor and moving toward a model that fairly compensates every worker in the supply chain is key. The true cost of a garment should reflect both its environmental and human impact.
"The way we've been working so far in the fashion industry has always been on the back of someone else, or of something else," says Powney. "Whether it's the people making the clothes or the planet...It has to change."
Regenerative fashion won't be a cure-all for the industry's environmental woes. We also need to grapple with the relentless pace of production and our culture of overconsumption. However, it offers a powerful model for businesses to operate within planetary boundaries, demonstrating that fashion choices can actively contribute to healing, rather than depleting, our world.
The concept of a luxurious cashmere sweater grown by nomadic herders on a biodiverse rangeland might currently seem like a utopian ideal. But the regenerative fashion movement signals a shift. It's about a recognition that sustainability alone isn't enough; in many cases, we need to restore what's been damaged and leave the planet healthier than we found it.
If this vision guides the fashion industry going forward, then perhaps, one day, the most coveted item in your wardrobe might just be the one with a story of positive environmental impact woven into its very fibers.
