In-Flight Dining And Its History

 The Unlikely Joy of Dining at 40,000 Feet

It is an incredible feat to eat something thousands of feet in the air, and it's an unbeatable experience when the food is presented on a compact tray. At home, warming a pre-made beef bourguignon is simply a convenience meal. A memorable, if unforgivable, nickname for microwaveable meals is ‘ping dinners.’ Yet, a serving of noodles with sesame chicken, when handed to you high above the ground, can feel like the most delicious dish ever consumed. The impact of altitude on the senses has a part to play in this phenomenon. This same effect explains the heightened emotional response to a film such as Marley & Me.

A unique appeal of flying is the complete lack of responsibility. The only decisions to make are simple ones, like what movie to watch, what to select for the main course—perhaps the poultry or the seafood option—and when to use the facilities. The food served on airplanes evokes a similar feeling of being cared for like a child. The small divided sections, the single-serving butter, and the peel-off foil cover are all part of it.

The Marvel Of In-Flight Dining

The whole setup is a grown-up version of the plastic muffins and toy eggs we played with in our miniature ovens as kids. The flight attendants, in this scenario, act as caring figures who are in on the game. They might ask if you would care for some wine with your duck dish, presented with disposable cutlery in the usual fashion. Naturally, you would.

That none of the food is exceptionally tasty is entirely irrelevant. You are sitting in a chair that is flying through the sky, and someone offers a complimentary pinot noir and a small portion of coleslaw. The marvel is that any of this is taking place. Nobody is trying to pass it off as gourmet cuisine; it is just a notch above pet food. If the meal quality is acceptable for the film's canine star, then it should be acceptable for anyone. You can’t quite recall if Marley was the character Owen Wilson played. After three Bloody Marys, and spilling the balsamic dressing on your pants, someone should probably help you.

The Dawn of In-Flight Dining

The concept of eating in the sky began modestly. On 11 October 1919, the first airline meals were served on a Handley-Page flight from London to Paris. These were simple, pre-packed lunch boxes, costing three shillings each. In these early days of aviation, aircraft engines were weak and could not carry much weight. There was no space for kitchens or heating systems. The inaugural in-flight meal was a cold affair, a practical solution for a novel form of travel. The experience was less about culinary delight and more about the sheer novelty of flying.

Early air travel was a luxury reserved for the wealthy. Airlines focused on passenger comfort, but the limitations of the aircraft were significant. The food, like the journey itself, was an adventure. As technology advanced and flight times grew longer, so did the demand for more substantial meals. The 1920s and 1930s saw a gradual evolution from simple snacks to more structured dining experiences, laying the groundwork for the elaborate services that would follow. The industry was still in its infancy, but the seeds of in-flight catering had been sown.

Early In-Flight Kitchens

The 1930s marked a significant step forward in airline catering. In 1936, United Airlines became the first airline to install kitchens on board its aircraft. This innovation allowed for the provision of hot meals, a revolutionary concept at the time. Passengers were no longer limited to cold sandwiches and fruit. United initially offered a choice of two hot entrees: fried chicken or scrambled eggs. This simple menu was a sign of things to come, a promise of a more sophisticated dining experience in the air.

The introduction of on-board kitchens fundamentally altered the flying experience. It was no longer just about getting from one place to another; it was about the experience of the journey itself. The ability to serve hot food and drinks added a new level of comfort and luxury. Other airlines soon followed United's lead, and the 1940s saw the development of frozen meals that could be reheated on planes. This innovation was a precursor to the modern TV dinner and ushered in a new era of in-flight service.

A Glamorous Era for Flying

The 1950s and 1960s are often seen as a golden period for aviation. During this time, air travel was a glamorous affair, and in-flight dining was a central part of the experience. Airlines competed to offer the most luxurious service, and food was a key battleground. Multi-course meals were served on fine china with real silverware and linen tablecloths. The aim was to create a sense of elegance and sophistication, to make flying a memorable event.

The advent of jet airliners made international travel more accessible, and this created a need for improved food storage and reheating capabilities. Airlines rose to the challenge, offering diverse menus that reflected the glamour of the jet age. British Airways and Air France, for example, became renowned for their high-quality cuisine, serving delicacies such as champagne, caviar, black truffle, foie gras, and lobster. It was a time when the journey was as important as the destination, and the in-flight meal was a highlight of the trip.

Pan Am's Flying Restaurants

No airline embodied the luxury of that glamorous period more than Pan Am. In the 1950s, the airline operated a fleet of seaplanes called "Clippers." These enormous aircraft featured dining rooms where passengers could eat at tables with china plates. The menus were often inspired by French bistros, with dishes like boeuf bourgeois and pommes Anna. An extensive cocktail menu was also available. The meal service was deliberately elaborate, designed to entertain passengers in an era before in-flight televisions.

Pan Am's commitment to culinary excellence set a new standard for the industry. The airline collaborated with famous restaurants, such as Maxim's of Paris, to create its menus. In 1956, Pan Am and Maxim's won three prizes at the International Gastronomic Exhibition in Frankfurt, including a gold medal for frozen food. This was a remarkable achievement, a testament to the quality of the food being served at 30,000 feet. At first, these gourmet meals were only available to first-class passengers, but Pan Am later extended the service to economy class.

The Role of Chefs

The 1950s also saw the emergence of the professional chef as a key figure in airline catering. As the market for air travel expanded, airlines began to collaborate with renowned culinary experts to elevate their in-flight offerings. This was a significant shift from the early days of cold, pre-packaged meals. The involvement of chefs brought a new level of creativity and expertise to the airline kitchen. The goal was to create dishes that were not only delicious but also suitable for consumption at high altitudes.

In 1973, the French airline Union de Transports Aériens recruited chef Raymond Oliver to re-evaluate its menus. This was part of a broader trend of airlines seeking to distinguish themselves through the quality of their food. The collaboration between airlines and chefs has continued to the present day. In 2011, British Airways enlisted the help of Heston Blumenthal, of Fat Duck fame, to design its in-flight menus. Other airlines, such as Singapore Airlines and Air France, have also partnered with Michelin-starred chefs to create unique dining experiences for their passengers.

A Shift in Priorities

The 1970s brought a significant change to the airline industry. The deregulation of aviation in the United States led to increased competition and a greater focus on cost-cutting. Airlines sought to streamline their operations, and in-flight catering was one of the areas affected. The extravagant, multi-course meals of the glamorous era began to disappear, replaced by more standardised, pre-packaged options. Disposable materials took the place of fine china and silverware. The emphasis shifted from luxury to affordability.

The rise of low-cost carriers further accelerated this trend. These airlines built their business models on offering the lowest possible fares, and this meant cutting back on non-essential services. Complimentary meals became a thing of the past on many flights, with passengers instead given the option to purchase food and drinks on board. The in-flight dining experience was transformed, becoming a more functional, less glamorous affair. The focus was now on efficiency and cost-effectiveness, a far cry from the opulent services of the 1950s and 60s.

The Rise of Standardisation

The drive for cost-efficiency in the 1970s and 80s led to a greater standardisation of airline meals. The introduction of the HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points) system in the 1980s further reinforced this trend. This system, designed to ensure food safety, led to more uniform menus and preparation methods. While this improved safety and consistency, it also contributed to the perception of airline food as bland and uninspired.

One famous example of this cost-cutting mentality came in 1987. Robert Crandall, the chief executive of American Airlines, reportedly saved the company $40,000 a year by removing a single olive from every salad served in first class. This story, whether apocryphal or not, perfectly illustrates the industry's shift in priorities. The focus was no longer on providing a luxurious dining experience, but on maximising profits. The in-flight meal became another line item on the balance sheet, a cost to be minimised wherever possible.

Image Credit - Freepik

The Science of Taste at 30,000 Feet

The environment of an aircraft cabin has a significant impact on our sense of taste and smell. Studies have shown that our ability to perceive flavours can decrease by up to 30% at high altitudes. This is due to a combination of factors, including low air pressure, low humidity, and background noise. The dry, filtered air in the cabin can dry out our nasal passages, which in turn affects our sense of smell. Since our perception of flavour is heavily dependent on our sense of smell, this can make food taste bland.

The low air pressure in a pressurised cabin, which is equivalent to being at an altitude of 2,000-2,500 metres, also affects our taste buds. Research conducted by the Fraunhofer Institute in Germany found that low pressure and humidity reduce our perception of saltiness by 20-30% and sweetness by 15-20%. This means that food that tastes perfectly seasoned on the ground can seem bland and tasteless in the air. Airlines and their catering partners have to take these factors into account when designing their menus.

The Impact of Cabin Pressure and Humidity

The pressurised environment of an aircraft cabin is essential for passenger safety and comfort, but it has some unavoidable side effects. The air pressure in the cabin is significantly lower than at sea level, and this can affect the way our bodies function. The lower pressure reduces the oxygen saturation in our blood, which in turn can dull our taste receptors. This makes it more difficult for us to distinguish between different flavours.

The humidity in an aircraft cabin is also very low, often less than 12%. This is drier than most deserts. The dry air can cause our mouths to become dry, which further reduces the sensitivity of our taste buds. It also affects our olfactory receptors, making it harder to perceive the aromas that contribute to the flavour of food. To compensate for these effects, airline caterers often have to increase the amount of salt, sugar, and spices in their dishes.

The Surprising Popularity of Tomato Juice

One of the enduring mysteries of airline food is the popularity of tomato juice. Many people who would never drink it on the ground find themselves craving it in the air. The reason for this lies in the way our sense of taste is altered at high altitudes. While our perception of sweetness and saltiness is diminished, our perception of umami, the savoury taste found in foods like tomatoes, is actually enhanced by the low pressure and background noise of the cabin.

A study by Cornell University found that the loud engine noise on an aircraft can enhance the perception of umami. This explains why tomato juice, which is rich in umami, tastes so much better in the air. It seems less earthy and more acidic, making it a refreshing and satisfying choice for many passengers. The same principle applies to other umami-rich foods, such as mushrooms and parmesan cheese, which also tend to taste better at altitude.

The Logistics of Feeding the Skies

The process of getting food onto an aircraft is a complex logistical operation. As the president of KLM Catering once said, "In-flight catering is 70 per cent logistics and 30 per cent cooking." Large international airlines can operate between 500 and 1,000 flights a day, and each of these flights needs to be stocked with thousands of items. A single Airbus A380 or Boeing 787 can require thousands of individual items to be loaded before it takes off.

The in-flight service supply chain is one of the most complex in the world. It involves coordinating the work of airlines, catering companies, and global logistics providers. The caterers are responsible for preparing the meals, assembling the trays and trolleys, and loading them onto the aircraft. The logistics partners, such as Kuehne & Nagel, DHL, and Panalpina, are responsible for moving goods around the world. The entire process requires meticulous planning and execution to ensure that the right meals get to the right planes at the right time.

The Role of Catering Companies

The airline catering industry is a multi-billion dollar business. In the United States, two companies, LSG Sky Chefs and Gate Gourmet, dominate the market. Airlines sign multi-million dollar contracts with these companies to handle their catering needs. The process begins with the creation of a menu, a process that can take months. Chefs create hundreds of different dishes, which are then presented to airline executives. The final menu is selected based on a variety of factors, including cost, taste, and suitability for in-flight consumption.

Once the menu is finalised, the catering companies place large orders for ingredients, often far in advance. The meals are then prepared in massive kitchens located at or near airports. Food safety is a top priority, and caterers must adhere to strict regulations to prevent foodborne illnesses. The International Flight Services Association has a 120-page guide to food safety, covering everything from the prevention of cross-contamination to the safe handling of food waste. The prepared meals are then transported to the aircraft and loaded on board, all within a tight time window.

 Image Credit - Freepik

Ensuring Food Safety

Food safety is paramount in the airline catering industry. A single outbreak of foodborne illness on a flight could have serious consequences for both passengers and the airline. To prevent this, caterers follow a strict set of procedures known as the cold chain. This involves maintaining a temperature at or below 5°C (41°F) throughout the entire process, from preparation to delivery. Keeping food cold is crucial to halting the growth of bacteria.

The International Flight Services Association's food safety guide provides a comprehensive framework for ensuring the safety of in-flight meals. The guide covers all aspects of the catering process, from the sourcing of ingredients to the disposal of waste. It emphasises the importance of the CLEAN acronym: Cover, Label, Elevate, and Notify. This simple but effective system helps to prevent cross-contamination and ensure that food is handled safely at every stage.

Modern-Day In-Flight Catering

The in-flight dining landscape has changed significantly in recent years. The rise of low-cost carriers led to the decline of complimentary meals, but many full-service airlines are now bringing them back, especially on long-haul flights. The quality and variety of these meals have also improved, with many airlines offering a range of options to suit different tastes and dietary requirements. The simple "poultry or seafood" option from previous years has been replaced by more sophisticated menus that often feature regional specialities and seasonal ingredients.

At the same time, the buy-on-board market has continued to grow. Many airlines now offer a wide selection of snacks, meals, and drinks for purchase, giving passengers more control over their in-flight dining experience. This has led to the development of new and innovative products, such as grazing boxes, tapas, and premium gin and tonics. Some airlines are also introducing pre-order systems, allowing passengers to choose their meals in advance. This not only enhances the passenger experience but also helps to reduce food waste.

The Rise of Buy-on-Board

The move towards buy-on-board catering has been one of the most significant trends in the airline industry in recent years. This model allows airlines to reduce their costs while also generating ancillary revenue. For passengers, it offers greater choice and flexibility. Instead of being limited to a set meal, they can choose from a menu of different options, from light snacks to more substantial meals. This has led to the development of a wide range of new products, designed to appeal to different tastes and budgets.

The buy-on-board market has also driven innovation in packaging and presentation. The new generation of in-flight meals are often served in stylish, modern packaging that is both functional and attractive. Some airlines are also experimenting with new service concepts, such as tapas boxes and Mediterranean-style tasting platters. These new offerings are a far cry from the bland, uninspiring meals of the past. They reflect a growing understanding of passenger preferences and a desire to create a more enjoyable in-flight experience.

Special Dietary Requirements

Airlines are increasingly catering to a wide range of special dietary requirements. In addition to the standard vegetarian and vegan options, many airlines now offer meals that are gluten-free, dairy-free, low-sodium, and halal or kosher. This reflects a growing awareness of the diverse needs of modern travellers. It also presents a significant logistical challenge for catering companies, who have to prepare and segregate a large number of different meal types.

The demand for plant-based meals has seen a particularly strong increase in recent years. Airlines such as Japan Airlines, Korean Air, and TAP Air Portugal have all expanded their vegan and plant-based offerings. Delta has partnered with Impossible Foods to offer a wider selection of vegetarian meals. This trend is driven by a number of factors, including a growing interest in health and wellness, as well as concerns about the environmental impact of meat consumption.

Innovations and the Future of Airline Food

Technology is playing an increasingly important role in the evolution of airline food. Advancements in food science and culinary techniques have enabled airlines to offer a wider range of high-quality meals. New cooking technologies, such as sous-vide and steam injection ovens, are helping to improve the taste and texture of in-flight food. Automation and robotics are also being used to streamline meal preparation processes, improving efficiency and consistency.

Airlines are also using technology to personalise the in-flight dining experience. Pre-ordering systems and mobile apps allow passengers to specify their meal preferences in advance. Some airlines are even exploring the use of biometric data and artificial intelligence to tailor meal offerings to individual passengers. These innovations are helping to create a more customised and enjoyable dining experience, while also reducing food waste.

Celebrity Chef Collaborations

The trend of airlines collaborating with celebrity chefs is not new, but it has gained momentum in recent years. These partnerships are a way for airlines to differentiate themselves in a competitive market and to enhance their brand image. By associating themselves with a well-known chef, airlines can create a sense of luxury and exclusivity. These collaborations also bring a high level of culinary expertise to the in-flight kitchen, resulting in more creative and sophisticated menus.

In addition to Heston Blumenthal's work with British Airways, other notable collaborations include Singapore Airlines' partnership with two-Michelin-starred chef Carlo Cracco and Air France's work with Joël Robuchon. Delta has also forged partnerships with three James Beard Award-winning chefs. These collaborations are helping to raise the bar for in-flight dining, challenging the old stereotypes of bland and unappetising airline food.

Sustainability in the Air

Sustainability has become a key focus for the airline industry, and in-flight catering is no exception. Airlines are increasingly looking for ways to reduce the environmental impact of their operations, and this includes everything from sourcing local ingredients to minimising food waste and reducing packaging. Some airlines are introducing fully recyclable and biodegradable packaging for their meals. Others are working with their catering partners to develop more sustainable menus, with a greater emphasis on plant-based options.

Food waste is a major challenge for the airline industry. Pre-ordering systems can help to reduce waste by ensuring that only the required number of meals are loaded onto the aircraft. Airlines are also exploring new ways to manage their waste, such as composting and recycling. These initiatives are not only good for the environment, but they can also help to reduce costs. As the industry continues to evolve, sustainability is likely to become an even more important consideration in the design and delivery of in-flight catering.

Image Credit - Freepik

A Unique Experience

Dining at 40,000 feet is a unique experience. The combination of altitude, low pressure, and background noise creates a sensory environment that is unlike any other. This can make food taste different, sometimes better, sometimes worse. But the real magic of airline food is not in its taste, but in the fact that it is being served at all. The logistics of preparing and delivering millions of meals a day to thousands of aircraft around the world is a truly remarkable feat.

The in-flight meal has come a long way from the cold, pre-packaged lunch boxes of the 1920s. Today's passengers can enjoy a wide range of options, from simple snacks to gourmet meals designed by celebrity chefs. The industry is constantly innovating, driven by a desire to improve the passenger experience and to meet the changing demands of modern travellers. So the next time you are on a flight, take a moment to appreciate the unlikely joy of dining at 40,000 feet.