Athelstan and the Wiltshire Trail

New Pilgrimage: Walking with England's Founding King

A new pathway stretching one hundred miles invites walkers to rediscover the legacy of Athelstan, the formidable ruler who forged a nation. Deep in the Wiltshire countryside, a story 1,100 years in the making is unfolding along ancient footpaths and quiet country lanes.

When considering England’s most famous monarchs, names like Henry VIII or Elizabeth I quickly come to mind. Few people would mention Athelstan, grandson of Alfred the Great. Yet, he was the initial monarch presiding over a genuinely unified England. He achieved what his illustrious grandfather only dreamed of.

Now, a new long-distance path aims to bring this overlooked king out of the shadows. The Athelstan Pilgrim Way, launched in stages since June 2024, is a one-hundred-mile route for walkers and cyclists. It winds through the heart of North Wiltshire, connecting thirty-six historic churches and reviving the memory of a foundational period in English history. The journey begins in Malmesbury's hilltop market town, a place that never forgot its king.

The Architect of a Nation

To understand the trail, one must first understand the man. Athelstan, born around 894, inherited a fragmented land. Rival Anglo-Saxon realms contended for supremacy against Viking invaders who controlled a vast swathe of the north. His grandfather, Alfred, had laid the groundwork for a unified English-speaking realm to repel the Norse threat.

Athelstan, whose reign spanned the years 924 to 939, built upon those foundations with ruthless efficiency. His defining military achievement came in 927 when he marched north and conquered the Viking-held Jorvik kingdom, modern-day York. For the very first time, all the Anglo-Saxon populations of Britain were governed by a single leader. This act effectively created the kingdom of England.

The Battle of Brunanburh

Athelstan's supremacy did not go unchallenged. In 937, a formidable alliance of Olaf Guthfrithson, the Norse king of Dublin, Constantine II of Scotland, and Owain of Strathclyde amassed a huge army to invade England. The resulting confrontation, the Battle of Brunanburh, was one of the largest and bloodiest fought on British soil in the Anglo-Saxon era.

The precise location of Brunanburh is lost to history, but the impact of the battle is not. Athelstan’s forces won a decisive victory. Contemporary accounts describe a day of immense and horrific slaughter that preserved the unity of his new kingdom. The victory cemented Athelstan’s status as a dominant force, not just in Britain but across Europe.

A European Statesman

Beyond his military prowess, Athelstan was a sophisticated and pious ruler. He was a shrewd diplomat who forged strong connections with continental Europe. He achieved this largely through the strategic marriages of his many half-sisters to prominent European rulers, including the future Holy Roman Emperor, Otto I.

His court became a cosmopolitan centre of learning, attracting scholars from across the continent. He was also a prolific law-maker, building on his grandfather's work to create a more just and orderly society. More legal texts survive from his reign than from any other tenth-century English king, showing his deep concern for governance and social stability.

A Landmark for a King

The Athelstan Pilgrim Way's inception is a component of the larger Athelstan 1100 festivities, which commemorate 1,100 years since his coronation. These events have featured historical presentations, archaeological projects, and a dedicated journey from Malmesbury to Kingston-upon-Thames, the location of the 925 crowning ceremony.

The trail itself does not lead to the coronation site. Instead, it forms an intricate network of six circular walking loops and two longer cycling routes centred on Malmesbury. This structure allows people to experience the king's heartland at their leisure, whether tackling a short afternoon walk or a multi-day journey. The project is a Church of England initiative, developed by the North Wiltshire Mission Area.

Malmesbury : The King’s Chosen Rest

Malmesbury Abbey, a magnificent Norman structure, is the spiritual and physical starting point for the pilgrimage. It was here that Athelstan chose to be buried upon his death in 939. His decision was deeply symbolic. His ancestors were laid to rest in Winchester, Wessex's traditional royal seat.

By selecting Malmesbury, a town located at the boundary separating the previously conflicting realms of Wessex and Mercia, Athelstan sent a powerful message. This gesture, even after his passing, signalled his reign was for all the English people he had united. Inside the abbey, a striking fifteenth-century tomb commemorates the king.

The Mystery of the Empty Tomb

The tomb that visitors see today adds another layer of intrigue to Athelstan's story: it is empty. The king's remains were moved to this spot from an older Anglo-Saxon part of the abbey in the twelfth century. However, at some point during the turbulent centuries that followed, his bones were lost.

Historians theorise the bones were probably dispersed amidst Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries or demolished when the English Civil War turned Malmesbury into a conflict zone. Some local residents hold out hope for a future discovery, perhaps beneath a parking area, similar to the finding of Richard III in Leicester. For now, the king's final whereabouts are unknown.

A Community's Living Memory

While the wider world may have overlooked him, Athelstan's presence is woven into the fabric of Malmesbury. The Athelstan Museum, located in the town hall, presents the forgotten king’s fascinating story. Volunteers there speak of a monarch held in deep affection by the local community.

The monarch's name is found on places such as the Athelstan Care Home and roadways like Athelstan Court. A local organisation, the Warden & Freemen of Malmesbury, follows its ancestry directly back to a charter granted by the king himself. This enduring legacy demonstrates a connection that has survived for over a millennium.

The Visionaries Behind the Path

The trail is the result of dedicated local effort. A key figure in developing the routes, David Pope, found his motivation for the initiative after contributing to a comparable pilgrimage trail in his home country of Wales. He personally traversed the full one-hundred-mile distance prior to its opening, confirming the path was secure and easy to follow.

The foundational idea for a continuous trail connecting the abbey with its nearby churches originated with Hilary Peters, a keen walker and pilgrim who died in 2022. Her vision of a local pilgrimage accessible to all was a driving force. Carole Britton's companion guide to the trail follows in Peters' footsteps, enriching the journey for modern pilgrims.

The Pilgrim’s Journey

Before setting off from the abbey, walkers have the opportunity to obtain a "Pilgrim Passport." Inside this booklet, they can gather distinctive stamps at all thirty-six churches on the path, creating a tangible record of their journey. The motivation for walking the path varies for each individual.

Some are drawn by the deep history of the region. For others, it represents a spiritual quest or a straightforward break from contemporary stresses. The trail's creators emphasise that it is not an exercise in evangelism. It is a shared space where people can find their own meaning amidst the landscape and its ancient stones.

A Revival of an Ancient Practice

The new Wiltshire trail connects with a broader resurgence in pilgrimage across Britain. After centuries of decline following the Reformation, walking ancient spiritual paths is enjoying a remarkable comeback. Organisations like the British Pilgrimage Trust are promoting routes with a "bring your own beliefs" ethos, making them accessible to people of all faiths and none.

These modern pilgrimages offer a chance to slow down, connect with nature, and explore local heritage. They provide physical and mental benefits, fostering a sense of community and quiet contemplation in a fast-paced world. The Wiltshire trail is a perfect example of this growing movement.

A Contested Legacy

The trail does not shy away from the more complex aspects of Athelstan's reign. While he is celebrated as a uniter of the English, his successes were achieved at a significant expense for Britain's other populations. His campaigns subjugated the Welsh kingdoms, forcing them to pay a huge annual tribute, and he clashed repeatedly with the Scots.

This nuanced perspective is important for a complete understanding of the man. From a Welsh or Scottish viewpoint in the tenth century, Athelstan was not a heroic unifier but a powerful and aggressive neighbour. The path encourages walkers to remember that every historical narrative has more than one side.

Art and the Landscape

The project also embraces the arts to deepen the connection between the walker and the landscape. The role of "Artist in Residence" for the Athelstan Pilgrim Way is held by Dr Sheona Beaumont. She is spending two years photographing the churches, communities, and scenery along the entire one-hundred-mile route.

Her work explores the relationship between faith, history, and the natural environment. She notes that people, including those who are not religious, feel a connection to the local churches along the path. They are landmarks that form an inseparable part of the shared landscape and collective history of the region.

Walking Through History's Layers

A walk along the trail is a journey through time. One section of the path follows the Fosse Way. This Roman route extends in a remarkably direct line from Exeter all the way to Lincoln. This ancient highway serves as a reminder of the even deeper layers of history that lie beneath the Anglo-Saxon story.

The route guides travellers to remarkable churches, each with its own tale. One stop is the medieval church in Foxley, which received a notation in the Domesday Book, commissioned by William the Conqueror in 1086. Nearby stands the diminutive Bremilham Church; measuring only 12 square feet, it is England's most compact functioning church.

From Malmesbury to the Wider World

The commemorations of Athelstan's coronation link Malmesbury to other key locations in his story. A special pilgrimage walk, which is a component of the Athelstan 1100 events, travels from the king's burial place in Wiltshire to his coronation site at Kingston-upon-Thames. This walk follows historic routes, including long stretches of the Thames Path National Trail.

This symbolic journey, arriving in Kingston on the anniversary of the coronation, highlights the national significance of the king. It connects the quiet countryside where he chose his final rest with the place where his historic reign officially began, tying local heritage to the broader narrative of the nation’s birth.

The Path Ahead

The Athelstan Pilgrim Way is being opened in phases. The first sections launched in mid-2024, with additional routes becoming available through 2025. By September 2025, the final 40-mile section, covering the area between Malmesbury and Cricklade, will be officially opened, completing the full 100-mile circuit.

The project team has produced detailed guidebooks, maps, and even a children's trail featuring "Stan the dog." This thoughtful planning ensures the trail is accessible and engaging for all ages and abilities, from seasoned long-distance hikers to families looking for a short, meaningful walk.

A Beautiful Introduction

Finishing a day’s walk in Malmesbury, the monarch's enduring influence becomes clear. It is present in the names on the town map, in the stories shared by museum volunteers, and in the very stones of the magnificent abbey. Within this part of Wiltshire, the story of England's inaugural king has always endured.

For those who were not raised with knowledge of his history, the Athelstan Pilgrim Way provides a wonderful entry point. It is an invitation to walk through the rolling hills and quiet villages of a landscape steeped in history, and in doing so, to reconnect with the remarkable legacy of the king who forged a kingdom.