Ancient Brews Reviving the Past
Brewing Back Through Time: Recreating History, One Pint at a Time
From the sands of ancient Egypt to the rolling hills of Roman Britain, a fascinating movement is afoot where brewers are delving into the past to recreate long-lost flavours. Beer archaeologists, a captivating breed of specialists, are meticulously reviving brews from bygone ages, offering us a delectable glimpse into the drinking habits of our ancestors.
These remarkable 'rebrews' of ancient libations weren't just a quirky novelty, mind you. Records show that our predecessors were rather fond of variety; Babylonian tablets, carved millennia ago, reveal recipes for a staggering 20 different barley-based beers. The act of recreating these ancient elixirs breathes life into history, reminding us that despite millennia separating us from past civilisations, our shared enjoyment of a good pint remains a timeless pleasure.
The Beer Archaeologist: Rediscovering Ancient Brews with Travis Rupp
At the heart of this beer revivalism are figures like Travis Rupp. Combining his academic expertise in Classics and Anthropology with past brewing experience, Rupp has earned the fitting moniker of 'The Beer Archaeologist'. In essence, he blends the meticulous nature of archaeological work with the artistic flair of brewing. And the results? Well, his line of archaic rebrews has been captivating the tastebuds of contemporary drinkers, proving that history can indeed come with a satisfying head of foam.
The beauty of these rebrews lies in the simplicity of the ancient brewing process. The core elements have remained consistent for millennia: grains, such as barley or emmer, are sprouted, dried, and heated in water to release sugars. After that, yeast is added, setting off the fermentation process that yields beer.
One noticeable difference between ancient and modern methods lies in the use of hops. Though a wild plant native to Europe, the earliest documented use of hops in beer only dates back to 9th-century French monastic records. Before this, brewers flexed their creative muscles, flavouring their beers with a wide array of botanicals. Indeed, these rebrews offer valuable lessons for modern brewers looking to expand their horizons.
Ales of Antiquity: Rediscovering Ancient Brewing Traditions
In 2016, Rupp initiated the acclaimed 'Ales of Antiquity' at Avery Brewing, brewing up history from across the world. One brew, 'Nestor's Cup', drew on a Mycenaean recipe from 1600-1100 BC, featuring ingredients like barley, einkorn wheat, elderberries, and even acorn flour. Rupp even recreated a 900-year-old South American corn beer called 'chicha', a process that got him into hot water due to the unusual fermentation method – human saliva used to start the process.
Rupp's latest adventures in brewing history involve 'kykeon', a beer described in Homer's classics, the Iliad and Odyssey. Recreating a brew from such a distant past, however, requires a multi-faceted approach. He explains, "It's a blend of archaeological research, studying ancient Greek texts, and a decade's worth of experimental brewing." Even with this knowledge, Rupp embraces the unexpected. "Once you move away from the controlled environment of modern brewing, you embrace uncertainty," he admits, "I always find myself a bit surprised by the results."
One delightful surprise from these ancient rebrews is how readily they challenge the notion that our brewing techniques are inherently superior to the past. Take the 2018 'Pleasant Vices' project at the British Museum, led by food historian Tasha Marks, which aimed to recreate an Egyptian beer from the age of Pharaohs. Her conclusion, shared on the British Museum blog, was a startling one: "Frankly, the Egyptian method makes a fool of modern brewers."
Reviving Ancient Brews: The British Museum's Historic Beer Project
Michaela Charles, the brewer entrusted with this fascinating exercise, found herself equally impressed. "The most thrilling aspect was witnessing the beer practically brew itself," she explains. "Modern brewing involves meticulous, multi-stage processes. The ancient method we followed created a smooth, continuous path; a delicious beer formed with minimal intervention. It makes you wonder if the passage of time doesn't always equal progress when it comes to some things."
This British Museum initiative drew inspiration from breweries excavated at the Egyptian worker's village of Amarna, circa 1350 BCE, alongside a Sumerian text called 'The Hymn to Ninkasi', one of several ancient figures deified as a goddess of beer.
Unlike modern breweries and their sterile steel fermenters, ancient brewers utilised open vessels – frequently, large ceramic pots. Their open tops encouraged wild yeasts to join the party, a practice harnessed by Charles in this project. Her resourceful nature led her to tap into her father, David White, a skilled ceramicist. He crafted vessels modelled after those in the British Museum collection.
Seeking authentic flavours, Charles delved into the foods found in ancient Egyptian funerary customs, adding elements like pistachio oil to the mix. Additionally, she browsed the historical food collection at the British Museum for clues, ultimately settling on the addition of dates for sweetness and to boost fermentation.
Recreating History: The Renaissance of Ancient Ales
Another pioneer of this movement is none other than Patrick McGovern, a Penn Museum professor and author. Known as 'Dr Pat' or the 'Indiana Jones of Ancient Ales', he made waves in the early 1990s with a high-tech analysis of a 2,700-year-old tomb in Turkey. The residue found in the drinking vessels revealed a beer-honey-wine concoction, likely enjoyed at the funeral feast of the legendary King Midas.
Inspired, McGovern collaborated with Dogfish Head brewery in 1999, recreating this brew as the immensely popular 'Midas Touch'. His exploration has continued, culminating in the recent 2022 brew, 'Tree Thieves'. This rebrew aimed to replicate an ancient Celtic style of ale called 'gruit', utilising various botanicals for flavouring, a more authentic reflection of pre-hop brewing techniques. "It incorporated mugwort and carrot seeds for bitterness," McGovern explains.
The influence of this rebrew trend has even reached British shores. Leading beer expert Jane Peyton, author of "The Philosophy of Beer", partnered with Ilkley Brewery to create a medieval gruit ale dubbed 'Doctor's Orders'. They embraced the belief held by brewers of the era that certain botanical ingredients possessed medicinal benefits.
Among the flavourings included were sage and yarrow, both believed to have antiseptic properties, along with bog myrtle and rosemary, thought to be mind-sharpening tonics back in the day. Peyton recalls, "The brewery smelled like a hearty Sunday roast while the ingredients simmered, with the rosemary and sage dominating!"
Unearthing Ancient Beers: Lessons for Modern Brewers
Charles sees valuable lessons for the future in understanding these ancient brewing practices. "I wouldn't be surprised to see more breweries working with terracotta vessels and experimenting with ancient grains," she predicts. Rupp, ever adventurous, shares his next brewing expedition plans, "I'm looking into recreating beers using brackish water, which might have been a brewing method in Roman-occupied Britain." Seems like a fascinating challenge!
Incredibly, our love affair with beer may stretch back even further than we initially thought. In 2018, a startling discovery was made in a cave along Israel's northern coast. Traces of fermented grains were found on ancient stone mortars, dating back a staggering 13,000 years - the oldest evidence of beer brewing unearthed to date! Now, that sounds like a truly remarkable rebrew waiting to happen.
History enthusiasts aren't the only ones captivated by these ancient beers. Modern brewers are also finding inspiration in these time-travelling creations. Sam Calagione, the founder of Dogfish Head Brewery, exemplifies this spirit. His collaboration with McGovern led to a diverse line of ancient brews, proving that looking back can yield exciting new directions in craft brewing.
Calagione sees this trend as a chance to break away from the constraints of contemporary brewing, where a handful of hops and yeast strains dominate the scene. "We get so caught up in the nuances of these modern ingredients... it's humbling to step outside our comfort zone and discover there's a whole different universe of flavours out there," he states.
Ales Through the Ages: Reviving History Through Beer
But it's not just brewers who benefit. Consumers are increasingly open to this sense of culinary adventure. "Craft beer nerds, and foodies interested in unique pairings, are enthusiastically embracing these revivals", observes Peyton. She notes a renewed interest in beer and food pairings, inspired by the flavours and ingredients of eras past.
The fascination extends beyond just pubs and tasting rooms. Festivals focusing on these resurrected ales, sometimes paired with historically-inspired cuisine, are springing up. One example is the 'Ales Through the Ages' festival held at the Penn Museum where McGovern often showcases his latest concoctions. These events offer engaging, multi-sensory experiences that transport participants back through time.
Festivals like these showcase the broader cultural significance of brewing throughout history. Ancient beers weren't just a source of refreshment – they played key roles in social gatherings, religious rituals, and even as a form of payment. Understanding the context surrounding these long-lost brews paints a richer picture of our heritage.
This holistic approach is embraced by brewers like Teresa McCulla. Based at Harvard University's Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology, she specialises in recreating brews associated with specific historical periods and places. To McCulla, meticulously replicating a recipe is only half the equation. "You need to recreate the drinking vessels, the food served alongside it... all of that contributes to the experience," she explains. She believes this immersive approach helps us connect more deeply with the people who first raised a glass of these ancient brews.
Rediscovering Ancient Brews: A Journey Through Time
However, recreating these old-fashioned beers isn't without its challenges. Ancient grains, many of which fell out of favour, can be difficult to source. Also, the unpredictable nature of wild yeast fermentation introduces an element of risk for commercial brewers, not to mention a flavour profile that might be a tad unfamiliar for modern palates used to the consistency of today's brews.
Despite this, the movement seems poised to grow. Bars specializing in historically inspired drinks are popping up, sometimes even brewing their own unique rebrews. In London, you'll find 'The Archaeology of Beer', a bar dedicated to exploring the evolution of the humble pint through the ages. They feature an ever-changing selection of ancient and traditional styles, offering a truly diverse, liquid journey through time.
Of course, recreating brews from millennia past isn't a quest for perfection. It's about celebrating the ingenuity and resourcefulness of our ancestors, who crafted delicious and satisfying drinks using the ingredients and knowledge available to them. It reminds us that the roots of our modern-day brewing traditions stretch deep into the past.
Beyond the appeal to beer enthusiasts, these projects have scientific value as well. Chemical analysis of the residues found on ancient brewing equipment and vessels yields invaluable insights. Researchers can identify ingredients, brewing techniques employed, and even the nutritional profile of these age-old drinks. This knowledge contributes to a more nuanced understanding of the lifestyles and diets of ancient civilizations.
Conclusion
Brewing, after all, isn't limited to just beer. Fermented beverages from all over the world, across different eras, offer thrilling avenues of exploration. In Mexico, researchers and brewers are teaming up to revive 'pulque', a traditional brew dating back to the Aztecs, made from the fermented sap of agave plants. Meanwhile, in China, efforts are on to recreate ancient rice wines, once essential components in courtly feasts and rituals.
The revival of these ancient traditions serves as a delicious reminder of the shared humanity that connects us across vast stretches of time and continents. Whether it was an Egyptian farmer, a Celtic chieftain, or a Viking warrior raising a mug, the simple joy of a satisfying drink, shared with companions, is something that knows no era.
It's important to note that not all rebrew ventures aim for the mass market. Some brewers approach these projects as a creative challenge, an avenue for experimentation rather than commercial success. Small-batch releases and taproom exclusives allow them to share these unique flavours with a curious clientele, sparking conversations about history and brewing techniques.
Even within the academic community, brewing is gaining recognition as a valuable tool for understanding the past. Initiatives like the 'Experimental Ale Archaeology' project at the University of Glasgow provide hands-on opportunities for researchers to experience and study the brewing practices of different cultures. After all, sometimes the best way to understand the past is to roll up your sleeves and get involved yourself.
Modern Adaptations of Ancient Practices
Of course, with recreations like these, some allowances must be made for modern safety and sanitation standards. But this needn't dampen the spirit of the endeavour. As with any culinary tradition passed down through generations, there's always a degree of adaptation with these ancient rebrews – a testament to the dynamic nature of both beer and brewing.
The popularity of these resurrected drinks also raises questions about the future of brewing. Could a focus on heritage grains, wild yeasts, and forgotten botanicals inspire a renaissance in craft beer, paving the way for a broader, more inclusive definition of what beer can be? If history has taught us anything, it's that brewing thrives on innovation and an open mind.
It's impossible to predict exactly where this trend will take us. However, one thing seems certain: as we continue to delve into the brewing secrets of our ancestors, we might just stumble across a few revolutionary ideas along the way. Perhaps we're on the cusp of a new era of brewing, where the past and present come together, inspiring a truly timeless and ever-evolving enjoyment of this ancient craft.
The story of ancient brews is a fascinating and multi-layered one. It's a testament to the deep-rooted passion for fermented beverages that transcends time and cultures, reminding us that even in an age of advanced technology, there's endless value, and a delightful touch of magic, to be found by rediscovering the ways of the past.
