On the Rise Bakery Goes Global

Cleveland's Rise: An Ohio Bakery's Quest for Global Bread Supremacy

A humble bakery from Ohio is set to take on the world. A prestigious global baking tournament in France, informally known as the “Bread Olympics,” will feature an American team led by Brian Evans from On the Rise Artisanal Breads. This moment carries significant weight. Significantly, the country has not had a presence at the contest since 2017. Now, an unassuming establishment from Cleveland is poised for worldwide attention, shouldering the hopes of a nation's baking community on its flour-dusted shoulders. The journey to Nantes represents more than a competition; it is a statement about the quality and passion found in America's local bakeries.

A Global Stage for a Humble Loaf

Every two years, the Mondial du Pain gathering assembles the planet's most elite bakers. Competitors from many countries converge in France to face off in demanding categories. These include the creation of traditional loaves, the delicate art of viennoiseries, and the construction of sophisticated artistic pieces made entirely from bread. The event is a formidable test of skill, creativity, and endurance. From a vast field of American bakeries, the distinction of being selected by the organisers went to On the Rise Artisan Breads. The business, located in the Ohio city of Cleveland Heights, earned the remarkable distinction of representing Team USA, a testament to its exceptional standards.

The Challenge Ahead

The bakers from this Ohio shop will contend with premier dough-makers and oven experts hailing from twenty other countries. This appearance marks America's much-anticipated return to the tournament after a lengthy hiatus. The gathering is scheduled for later this month within the city of Nantes, placing a high value on creative expression and technical excellence. Judges will scrutinise every detail, from the crumb structure of a French loaf to the lamination of a croissant. The competition demands not just skill, but also profound innovation and a flair for artistic presentation, pushing participants to the absolute limit of their craft.

A Baker's Personal Journey

This acknowledgment holds deep personal significance for Brian Evans. As the establishment's owner and principal baker, he has dedicated his life to this craft. Having taught himself the craft, Evans sharpened his abilities with guidance from Adam Gidlow, who founded On the Rise. He now hopes his participation in the tournament will put a well-deserved spotlight on the exceptional bread-crafting abilities present throughout north-east Ohio. For Evans, this is not just about personal glory, but about celebrating a regional culture of food craftsmanship that often goes unnoticed on the international stage.

The Pursuit of Perfection

The philosophy driving Brian Evans is one of elegant simplicity. During a recent phone call, he explained that the bakery's signature baguette contains only four basic components: salt, yeast, flour, and water. The daily pursuit of pulling a flawless baguette from the oven provides the very challenge that sustains his dedication to this demanding line of work. It is this relentless quest for perfection in the most fundamental of recipes that defines the artisanal spirit. This focus on extracting maximum flavour and texture from minimal ingredients is the hallmark of a true master baker and a core principle of the Mondial du Pain.

An Unwavering Daily Ritual

Commitment to the craft demands an early start. Evans's routine involves waking at 4 a.m. each morning to start work on the day's bread production. This pre-dawn ritual is essential to the lengthy process of fermentation and proving that gives artisanal bread its characteristic depth of flavour and airy texture. It is a quiet, solitary time for concentration before the bakery doors open to the public. This daily discipline, repeated over years, builds the muscle memory and intuition required to perform at an elite level, turning simple ingredients into something truly special for the local community.

Assembling Team USA

In this international endeavour, Evans will not be alone. He will captain Team USA alongside Val Kertesz, a talented junior baker, fostering a spirit of mentorship and collaboration. They will receive guidance and strategic direction from Louis Volle, their experienced coach. Volle’s credentials include being a past medallist in the Mondial du Pain competition and earning recognition as a semifinalist for a prestigious James Beard award. His role will be crucial in navigating the immense pressures of the competition and refining the team's strategy for each of the challenging categories they will face.

The Venue of Champions

The team is scheduled to participate in the contest from 19 to 22 October in the historic city of Nantes, France. The news of their selection was initially broken by the local publication Cleveland.com, sparking a wave of excitement in their home community. Nantes, with its rich culinary history, provides a fitting backdrop for such a prestigious event. The city will become a global hub for the baking world, as teams from across the continents gather to showcase their national traditions and innovative techniques. The atmosphere will be one of intense focus, professional respect, and shared passion for the art of baking.

The Eighteen Labours of Baking

The competition's rules are famously exacting. The challenge demands the creation of eighteen entirely distinct items. These products must meet incredibly precise specifications and include a wide range of creations, such as flaky croissants, rich brioches, perfectly formed baguettes, and elaborate, gravity-defying bread sculptures. This is a comprehensive test of a baker's repertoire, leaving no room for error. Contestants must demonstrate mastery across a broad spectrum of techniques, from lamination and fermentation to shaping and decorative work, all while under the watchful eyes of a panel of world-renowned judges.

Precision Down to the Gram

Brian Evans detailed the astonishing level of precision required. He explained that their baguette, upon being presented for judging, must adhere to the strictest measurements. The rules mandate a precise weight of exactly 250 grams and a specific length of exactly 55 centimetres. Any deviation could result in disqualification. Evans and the other members of his team will have a compressed eight-and-a-half-hour baking session to complete all eighteen products. This intense period of work follows a frantic two-and-a-half-hour window designated purely for preparation, making time management a critical component of the contest.

The Genesis of a Global Contest

A respected French organization, the Ambassadeurs du Pain, was responsible for initiating the very first Mondial du Pain contest in 2007. It has since grown into a highly regarded global baking contest. The founders created the event with a clear purpose: to champion and safeguard traditional artisan bread customs for this common food staple. The competition was designed to celebrate the humble loaf and the incredible skill involved in its creation. It stands as a bulwark against the homogenisation of industrial food production, promoting the values of craftsmanship, quality, and heritage.

A Mission of Purity and Passion

Beyond celebrating tradition, the Mondial du Pain also serves to motivate bakers to work with natural and wholesome ingredients. The rules often stipulate the use of specific flours or prohibit certain additives, encouraging a return to fundamental, clean baking. A secondary aim is to foster a powerful sense of cooperation and camaraderie among bakers from different cultures. Ultimately, the contest's core mission is to inspire a collective pursuit of greatness in the baking profession, ensuring the craft continues to evolve and thrive for future generations.

A Diverse European Tradition in Ohio

The menu at On the Rise reflects a deep appreciation for classic techniques. Evans described their daily offerings as being remarkably varied. He mentioned that the bakery produces delicate scones, decadent layered sticky buns, and buttery croissants. The shop also features a full and impressive lineup of conventional European-style loaves. Their shelves are filled with a wide range, spanning from a hearty, rustic Italian loaf to a tangy country sourdough and the quintessential French baguette. This diversity showcases the team's broad skillset and their dedication to preserving the rich tapestry of European baking traditions for their customers in Cleveland.

The Guild's Official Endorsement

The organisation responsible for the team's selection is The Bread Bakers Guild of America. According to a formal press release from the guild, the group designated On the Rise as the nation's official standard-bearer for several key reasons. The selection committee credited the bakers' exceptional technical proficiency as a primary factor. However, they also highlighted the bakery's community-focused and purpose-oriented philosophy regarding food. This dual focus on both outstanding quality and meaningful community engagement is what made On the Rise the ideal candidate to champion the values of American artisanal baking.

The Joy of the Daily Grind

The passion Brian Evans has for his work is palpable. He conveyed a profound enjoyment for every moment spent in the daily, repetitive, yet deeply rewarding challenge of attempting to produce the ultimate loaf. This sentiment captures the heart of the artisan's mindset: finding beauty and purpose in the consistent pursuit of an unattainable perfection. It is a craft that demands patience, intuition, and an intimate understanding of living ingredients. This love for the process itself, rather than just the end product, is what fuels the long hours and intense dedication required at this level.

Reigniting a National Passion

Evans also shared his personal aspiration of being the one to reignite sustained American participation in this important contest. He hopes that his team's journey can generate new excitement and enthusiasm all through the nation's baking culture, from small-town bakeries to large urban centres. His goal is to build a legacy that encourages future generations of American bakers to test their skills on the global stage. By leading the way, he aims to demonstrate that talent from the American Midwest can compete with, and triumph over, top global contenders.

A Cleveland Community Cornerstone

The journey for On the Rise began in 2001, and the bakery has since become celebrated for its delicious sandwiches, delicate pastries, and authentic European-style loaves. The bakeshop has steadily grown into a beloved fixture in its local community, with popular locations in both Shaker Heights and Cleveland Heights. It serves not just as a place to buy bread, but as a neighbourhood gathering spot, a daily ritual for many residents. This deep connection to its community is a source of immense pride for the bakery and a key part of its identity and success over the past two decades.

From France to Ohio's Tables

The intense preparation required for the Mondial du Pain contest has pushed the team to develop new and innovative recipes. Following the tournament in France, local patrons back in Cleveland can likely expect to see many of these unique creations become available in the shops. This provides a wonderful opportunity for the community to share in the team's experience. It allows customers to taste a piece of the global competition, bringing the flavours and techniques from the world stage directly back home to the neighbourhoods that have supported the bakery from the beginning.

The Science Behind the Art

Artisanal baking is a delicate dance between science and intuition. The process relies on the natural fermentation of wild yeasts and bacteria present in a sourdough starter. This living culture, often called a "mother," requires daily feeding and careful temperature control to thrive. The long, slow fermentation process, which can take up to 48 hours, breaks down glutens and starches in the flour. This not only develops a complex, tangy flavour profile but also makes the bread more digestible and nutritious than its commercially produced counterparts. Every loaf is a unique result of this biological process.

The Renaissance of Real Bread

A significant cultural shift towards artisanal food has occurred recently. Throughout the United States and Europe, consumers are increasingly turning away from mass-produced bread, seeking out local bakeries that prioritise quality ingredients and traditional methods. This movement, often called the "real bread" renaissance, has been fuelled by a greater awareness of health, a desire for authentic food experiences, and support for local economies. Establishments such as On the Rise are at the forefront of this trend, re-educating the public on how flavourful and wholesome bread can be when crafted with care and expertise.

Ohio's Rising Culinary Scene

The selection of a Cleveland bakery for such a prestigious event also speaks to the city's burgeoning reputation as a serious food destination. For decades, the American Midwest was often overlooked in culinary conversations, which tended to focus on coastal cities. However, a new generation of chefs, artisans, and entrepreneurs is changing that narrative. Cities like Cleveland are now home to a vibrant and diverse food scene, from innovative restaurants to high-quality producers. On the Rise's international recognition is a powerful symbol of this transformation, proving that world-class talent can be found far from the traditional culinary capitals.

The Weight of Expectation

As the competition date nears, the pressure on Team USA undoubtedly mounts. They are not just representing their bakery or their city; they are carrying the flag for an entire country's artisanal baking community. The long absence of a US team signifies their performance will be closely watched, both at home and abroad. Preparing for the Mondial du Pain requires months of relentless practice, recipe testing, and strategic planning. The team must perfect not only their products but also their workflow, ensuring they can execute flawlessly under the strict time constraints and intense scrutiny of the event.

A Legacy Beyond the Competition

Regardless of the final results in Nantes, Brian Evans, along with his team, has already achieved a significant victory. By simply reaching this global stage, they have elevated the profile of American artisanal baking and inspired countless others in their field. Their journey underscores the idea that passion, dedication, and a commitment to quality are the most important ingredients for success. The narrative of On the Rise serves as a powerful reminder that greatness can emerge from unexpected places, and that a small bakery from Cleveland can indeed make a significant mark on the world.