American Eagle And Denim History

The Unspoken Power of Denim: A Legacy of Provocation in Jeans Advertising

A recent American Eagle campaign featuring actress Sydney Sweeney has demonstrated, yet again, that few things stir public debate quite like a controversial jeans advert. This promotion is merely another chapter in a lengthy and storied tradition of denim brands using provocative imagery and slogans to capture attention and drive sales. From accusations of blasphemy to suggestions of child exploitation, the world of jeans advertising has consistently pushed boundaries, reflecting and sometimes shaping cultural conversations. The enduring power of these campaigns lies in their ability to tap into fundamental aspects of identity, rebellion, and desire, proving that selling a simple pair of trousers is a profoundly controversial act.

The Spark of the American Eagle Controversy

Few marketing efforts succeed in provoking commentary from a US president, vice-president, and prominent political figures. However, the advertisement by American Eagle for its denim line, featuring Euphoria star Sydney Sweeney, accomplished just that. The controversy ignited over a promotional video where Sweeney discusses hereditary traits. She states that genes are passed down from parents, often determining characteristics like hair colour and personality. Critics immediately accused the advert of promoting eugenics and aligning with white nationalist messaging, with some calling it a "white-supremacist dog whistle." The visual focus on Sweeney's blonde hair and blue eyes fuelled the backlash.

A Nation Divided: Reactions and Repercussions

Defenders of the campaign, including high-profile politicians, dismissed the criticism as “cancel culture run amok”. President Donald Trump praised the ad on his Truth Social platform. This endorsement triggered a significant rally in American Eagle's stock price, which surged more than 20%. While the company's online traffic saw a substantial bump, and "The Sydney Jean" sold out, foot traffic in stores reportedly declined in the immediate aftermath. The brand itself issued a statement clarifying the campaign was and always would be about the jeans.

From Divine Denim to Sacrilegious Slogans

Decades before American Eagle caused a stir, Jesus Jeans sparked a different kind of debate in 1973. The Italian brand's campaign, created by Emanuele Pirella and Oliviero Toscani, featured provocative slogans with religious overtones. One of the most famous ads displayed a woman's denim-clad posterior with a line suggesting that those who loved the brand should follow it. Another showed a model with unbuttoned jeans, accompanied by text implying people should seek no other denim but this one. This fusion of fashion, sensuality, and religious iconography in a predominantly Catholic country was bound to create controversy.

Pasolini's Critique and Vatican Censure

The Jesus Jeans campaign drew sharp criticism, most notably from the Vatican, which accused its creators of blasphemy through its official newspaper, L'Osservatore Romano. The controversy even led to legal action, with authorities attempting to seize the posters. The ads also captured the attention of the renowned Italian filmmaker and intellectual Pier Paolo Pasolini. In an essay, Pasolini analysed the slogan, suggesting it acted as an unintentional punishment as retribution for the church's compromises. He viewed the slogan as a monstrous form of expression that became a rigid stereotype.

Calvin Klein and the Age of Provocation

During the 1980s, Calvin Klein elevated the use of controversy in advertising to a new level. A string of promotions caused outrage because they featured young women in suggestive scenarios. The most notorious was a 1980 commercial directed by Richard Avedon, starring a 15-year-old Brooke Shields. In the spot, Shields wondered what might come between her and her Calvins, implying the answer was nothing. The line was widely interpreted as a sexual innuendo, leading to a significant public outcry and the banning of the commercial by some networks.

The Architect of Buzz: Selling Denim with Disruption

Calvin Klein pioneered the understanding that public debate and being disruptive could effectively sell denim. Despite the controversy, or perhaps because of it, the campaign featuring Shields was a monumental success. Consumers flocked to stores asking for the "Brooke Shields jeans," and the campaign helped establish Calvin Klein as a dominant force in the fashion world. Shields herself has reflected on the period, noting she was naive at the time and did not understand the sexual connotations of the line. The backlash, she noted, ultimately "backfired," propelling the brand to new heights.

A New Wave of Controversy in the 90s

Calvin Klein continued to push boundaries in the 1990s. A 1995 campaign featuring models like Kate Moss was condemned for implying the exploitation of children. In the ads, young-looking models were filmed removing their clothes while being questioned. The visuals, shot by Steven Meisel, were described as having a "porn studio casting couch" aesthetic, which made for uncomfortable viewing. Moss herself later recounted the anxiety she experienced before the shoot and the discomfort of working with co-star Mark Wahlberg. Despite the controversy and the negative experience for its star, the campaign further cemented Klein's provocative image and Moss's fame.

Levi's: Subverting the Gaze

Levi's likewise has a storied past of creating headline-grabbing advertisements. In 1985, the brand released its iconic "Launderette" commercial, which had a massive cultural impact. The ad featured model Nick Kamen removing his clothes down to his underwear inside a laundromat to clean his 501s, all set to Marvin Gaye's "I Heard It Through the Grapevine." Created by the British agency Bartle Bogle Hegarty, the commercial cleverly inverted the typical heterosexual male perspective in ads by presenting a man as the object of admiration.

The "Launderette" Effect: Sales and Spoofs

The commercial featuring Nick Kamen was a phenomenal success, leading to a reported 800% increase in sales of Levi's 501s. The demand was so high that the commercial reportedly had to be taken off the air because the company could not keep up. The ad's influence extended beyond sales figures; it was widely parodied in comedy sketches and is credited with boosting the popularity of boxer shorts in the UK. For many, the commercial is an enduring symbol of 1980s style and advertising genius.

Championing LGBTQ+ Representation

A decade later, in 1995, Levi's once again pushed boundaries with a promotion starring Filipino-American fashion designer Zaldy. The advertisement showed Zaldy wearing drag inside a New York cab, where he seems to startle the ogling driver when he begins to shave his face. The ad came out when there was very little LGBTQ+ visibility in marketing. It was a courageous move, and the Advertising Standards Authority was said to be on the verge of prohibiting it, eventually permitting it to be shown after 8 pm. The ad remains an iconic moment in queer visibility in media.

The Perpetual Challenge of Selling Denim

So why do jeans adverts so often court controversy? It stems from a fundamental need to "cut through" the noise. Advertising clothing is incredibly difficult, and grabbing people's attention requires a bold approach. This is especially true for denim, a product that has existed for a very long time with very little actual product differentiation. While brands can discuss tailoring or seams, at its core, it is just denim.

The Art of Narrative in a Saturated Market

Sometimes, the denim itself can be uninteresting. The presentation inside the commercial, combined with styling and a story, is what moves the product. The modern denim market is also incredibly saturated, making it even more challenging for a brand to stand out. The American denim market is immense, and companies feel pressure to take risks to differentiate themselves from the competition. This can lead to a willingness to create ads that might even get banned, as the resulting conversation can be invaluable.

The Social Media Amplifier: Ruffling Feathers for Reach

The advent of social media has made cutting through even harder and more expensive through traditional channels. Brands now must use social platforms to gain traction, especially for engaging a younger demographic. The nature of these platforms, however, rewards the bold and the provocative. On these networks, users tend to circulate content that is exceptional, unusual, or even insulting. To generate conversation in this landscape, a brand must be willing to provoke people.

The Modern Denim Dilemma: Fit and Fast Fashion

Beyond the challenge of advertising, the denim industry faces other significant pressures. A major issue is inconsistent sizing, a problem exacerbated by the rise of online shopping where customers cannot try on garments. This leads to high return rates, creating logistical and financial headaches for brands. Additionally, the industry is grappling with the environmental impact of traditional denim production, which uses vast amounts of water and chemicals, and the rise of fast fashion alternatives that offer much cheaper options. The popularity of "athleisure" wear has also eaten into the denim market share.

High-Stakes Storytelling: Beyoncé and Levi's

The high-stakes nature of modern denim advertising is perfectly illustrated by another recent Levi's campaign, this one featuring Beyoncé. The ad, which reimagines the iconic "Launderette" commercial, was largely praised for its stylish visuals and empowering message. However, it still drew criticism from some conservative commentators who accused the musician of "culturally appropriating" Marilyn Monroe. This stands in stark contrast to the American Eagle ad, highlighting how two campaigns for the same product can take radically different paths in the current cultural landscape.

A Risky Business: The Fine Line Between Buzz and Boycott

Despite the public debate, the Sydney Sweeney promotion seems to have resulted in a net gain for American Eagle, with stock prices soaring and the featured product selling out. However, the strategy is not without its risks. If a brand gets it wrong, it could face a long-term boycott of its products. However, the greatest risk is not that a fashion promotion creates offence, but instead that it goes completely unnoticed and unremarked upon. By this measure, American Eagle's "great genes" campaign was an undeniable success.