Manna Harvesting Ancient Craft

Sicily's Sweet Revival: The Ancient Gift of Manna Reclaimed

A searing summer sun beats down on Sicily's Madonie Mountains, about 65 kilometres east of Palermo. The air hums with the incessant thrum of cicadas. Local farmer Giulio Gelardi breaks the drone, gesturing towards an ash tree branch streaked with white. "Your timing is perfect," he announces. "Behold the renowned manna." Thick, milky lines of mineral-rich resin coat the bark. This substance, manna, finds mention seventeen times in the Bible. Generations knew it as a natural sweetener and effective remedy. Harvesting it, by making careful incisions in Fraxinus ornus and Fraxinus angustifolia trees to collect their sap, was once common across the Mediterranean. Industrial progress and urban expansion over the past eighty years, however, nearly wiped out this practice. Gelardi has championed the return of this historic staple for over three decades. Now, chefs and bakers incorporate the once-forgotten tree sap into innovative culinary creations.

A Biblical Legacy

The phrase "manna from heaven" resonates with many. It recalls the biblical story of food miraculously appearing to sustain the Israelites during their journey across the Sinai Desert. Exodus describes manna as delicate flakes, akin to frost upon the ground. Scholars continue debating the precise identity of the substance described in scripture. Nevertheless, a frost-coloured, honey-like resin called manna has been tapped from Mediterranean ash trees for over a millennium. Its long history and biblical association imbue the substance with a significance beyond its practical uses. The name itself, often interpreted as "gift of God," adds to its mystique. This connection to ancient narratives fuels interest in its modern revival, linking contemporary Sicilian agriculture to profound historical roots.

Centuries of Sicilian Sweetness

Within the 40,000-hectare Madonie Natural Park, manna extraction history stretches back at least to the ninth century. This period coincided with Arab rule over Sicily, a time known for agricultural innovation. Arab expertise likely influenced ash tree cultivation techniques. Renaissance Sicilian farmers gathered the sweet sap, which possesses notes reminiscent of cane sugar and almonds. They sold it to merchants trading throughout the Mediterranean basin. This trade proved lucrative enough that the sixteenth-century Kingdom of Naples imposed taxes upon it. Manna became an important economic resource, woven into the fabric of Sicilian life and commerce for hundreds of years, alongside other valuable agricultural products like citrus and olives.

Image Credit - BBC

The Decline of an Ancient Craft

Manna cultivation provided a livelihood for numerous Sicilian families until the Second World War. Archival film footage from 1936 documents the local practice of harvesting the substance. Pharmaceutical companies typically purchased the raw manna. They primarily sought to derive mannitol, a sugar alcohol used in sweeteners and diuretics. The landscape changed dramatically in the 1950s when chemists developed methods for synthesising mannitol in laboratories. This industrial production significantly undercut the market for natural manna. Consequently, harvesting activity dwindled sharply in the following decades. The traditional knowledge began to fade as younger generations sought opportunities elsewhere, viewing manna tapping as outdated.

One Farmer's Determination

Giulio Gelardi returned to Pollina, his birthplace, in 1985 after fifteen years away. He witnessed the near extinction of a practice central to local culture. "During my upbringing, manna tapping was familiar," Gelardi notes. The sight of abandoned ash groves saddened him. "Upon my return, under one hundred farmers still held this expertise," he recalls. The decline represented more than just economic loss; it signified a vanishing piece of Sicilian identity. Determined to prevent its complete disappearance, Gelardi felt a strong calling to act. His personal connection to the tradition fuelled a resolve that would face initial scepticism from his community.

Pollina's Living Heritage

Pollina, a medieval village home to around 3,000 people, appears carved directly from the surrounding limestone hills. Gelardi learned manna cultivation skills from his parents during childhood summers spent in this evocative landscape. "It was an entire familial affair," Gelardi remembers, illustrating the communal nature of the harvest. Men traditionally used handmade, curved blades, called mannaruoli, to gently slice the tree bark. Women employed segments of dried prickly pear pads (cladodes) to collect the sticky fluid as it oozed out. Children participated by moulding the viscous substance into cylindrical shapes known locally as "cannoli," echoing the famous Sicilian dessert. This division of labour highlights how deeply ingrained the practice was within family life. The village itself contains a Museum of Manna, testifying to its local importance.

The Art of the Incision

Gelardi explains that precise timing is crucial for successful manna extraction. Ash trees produce sap continuously, but collectable yields of resin appear only during the hottest summer months, typically July to September. Making incisions too early can shock the tree and halt production altogether. Conversely, waiting too long risks missing the peak flow period. Gelardi stresses that identifying the optimal moment relies heavily on intuitive observation. This skill develops through years of careful attention to each individual tree's subtle signals. It is a craft passed down through generations, not easily learned from books. Modern refinements include using hanging threads, often fishing line, to guide the dripping sap and form cleaner 'cannoli', reducing bark contact and impurities.

Listening to the Trees

Experienced harvesters, the 'ntaccaluori', develop a deep connection with their ash groves. They learn to read the trees' language. Foliage changing from a deep green to a paler shade, perhaps with yellowish hints, can indicate readiness. The appearance of fissures in the earth near the tree's roots might also suggest an opportune time. This indicates the tree is releasing excess sap to cope with dry conditions. Gelardi mentions some cultivators believe even the soundscape matters: "Ash trees love music, so if the cicadas don't sing, the trees won't produce great manna." Once a suitable tree is chosen, the cultivator makes a shallow test cut, monitoring the response. A slight oozing confirms maturity, allowing deeper incisions to release the valuable flow.

Image Credit - BBC

Rediscovering 'White Gold'

Gelardi emphasizes that this craft requires direct transmission of knowledge. "Book learning won't convey this proficiency," he warns. "Neglecting to share these skills with future cultivators means the loss of generations of accumulated agrarian acumen." Several months after his return in 1985, Gelardi began his mission to renew the practice. Initially, neighbours met his proposed “manna resurgence” with considerable resistance. "Friends questioned my sanity, dismissing manna as outdated," he shares. Undeterred by the scepticism, Gelardi dedicated months to intensive learning. He sought out the remaining elderly agriculturalists, patiently honing his collection techniques under their guidance. His commitment extended beyond the practical aspects of harvesting.

From Local Lore to Wider Appeal

Alongside practical training, Gelardi immersed himself in research at Palermo’s main library. "I understood manna's neighbourhood uses," Gelardi recalls, "but expanded my knowledge of its therapeutic range." He investigated its traditional applications for digestive complaints, skin conditions, joint pain, and respiratory ailments. His research also uncovered manna's deep cultural and geographical resonance. The nearby sanctuary hill, Gibilmanna, derived its name from the Arabic 'gibil' (mountain) and 'manna'. Local Sicilian expressions like "vivere di mieli e manna" (literally, to live on honey and manna) signify abundance, reflecting manna's historical value. This deeper understanding strengthened his resolve to preserve not just the product, but its entire cultural context.

Spreading the Word

By 1986, Gelardi began actively promoting manna. He distributed informational pamphlets about its history and uses to tourists visiting a nearby resort. "Guests displayed immense interest in manna's restorative abilities and cultural resonance," he notes. This positive feedback encouraged him. Over the next decade, Gelardi expanded his efforts, conducting educational tours focused on manna extraction. He presented it as a unique local food source, linking it to the region's identity. His persistence gradually began shifting local perceptions. He authored a book, "Vivere di manna" (Living of Manna), further documenting the tradition and his revival efforts. His work laid the foundation for manna's re-emergence.

Nature's Mineral Boost

Manna's primary component is mannitol, a hexavalent alcohol or sugar alcohol, often constituting around 60% of its mass. Mannitol gives manna its characteristic sweetness. It also contains various other beneficial compounds. These include simple sugars like glucose and fructose, alongside mannotriose and mannotetraose. Manna is also a source of essential minerals, notably magnesium, calcium, and potassium. Vivienne Spadaro, a botanical science instructor at Palermo University, highlights its role as a dietary mineral aid, particularly useful for restoring potassium levels lost through exertion or heat. Recent research also identified trace elements like iron, rubidium, strontium, copper, and zinc in manna from Fraxinus angustifolia.

A Versatile Remedy

The unique composition of manna underpins its traditional medicinal uses. "Manna alleviates issues like blockages, throat inflammation, coughing, and wounds, because it soothes and reduces congestion," Spadaro explains. Its gentle laxative effect, attributed mainly to mannitol, is perhaps its best-known property, considered safe even for children. It functions as an osmotic laxative, drawing water into the intestine. Beyond digestion, manna is used traditionally as a cough suppressant and expectorant. Some studies suggest anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, linked to its polyphenol content, including hydroxytyrosol. Further research explores potential benefits for skin health, wound healing, and even antiproliferative activity against certain cancer cells.

Slow Food Recognition

A significant milestone arrived in 2002. The Slow Food movement, a global organisation dedicated to preserving traditional foods and sustainable agriculture, designated Madonie's manna as a Presidium product. This recognition brought vital attention and support. The Slow Food Presidium specifically protects the purest form, 'manna eletta', which forms stalactite-like 'cannoli' without extensive contact with the bark. This status helped safeguard the authentic product from potential counterfeits and highlighted its cultural value. The Presidium unites producers committed to quality standards and traditional harvesting methods, further bolstering the revival efforts initiated by Gelardi and others. This endorsement elevated manna's profile significantly.

Manna in the Modern Kitchen

Following the Slow Food recognition, manna captured the imagination of local chefs and pastry artisans. Its unique flavour profile – subtly sweet with almond and honey notes – offered new creative possibilities. “My exploration of manna started with almond-manna pandolce," shares Giuseppe Zingales, chef at Hostaria Cycas near Castelbuono. "I later discovered its adaptability in hearty meals." His restaurant now features diverse manna applications. These include using it to create a crust on meat, flavouring a risotto with asparagus and cured pork, and incorporating it into a dessert featuring cheese, greens, and manna fondue. This culinary adoption demonstrated manna's versatility beyond traditional sweet uses.

Image Credit - BBC

Beyond Sweetness: Savoury Innovations

At Ristorante Nangalarruni, also in Castelbuono, chefs Francesca and Peppe Carollo embrace manna's potential in savoury dishes. They use powdered manna to enhance an oven-roasted suckling pig recipe, balancing its sweetness with nuts and other savoury elements. Francesca Carollo advises careful application: "Small manna amounts, in consideration of its sweetness, enhances the meat taste. Overuse risks making it overly sweet." Esteemed Sicilian chefs like Pino Cuttaia (two Michelin stars) and Ciccio Sultano also incorporate manna into their refined cuisine, exploring its capacity to add complexity to both sweet and savoury creations. Even internationally renowned chefs like Massimo Bottura have experimented with this unique Sicilian ingredient.

Sweet Innovations: From Cannoli to Cosmetics

Bakers and confectioners show particular interest in manna. Nicola Fiasconaro, a celebrated Italian baker based in Castelbuono, gained fame for innovative panettone variations. One notable creation is a chocolate panettone decorated with crystallised manna ('mannetti'). Fiasconaro also produces manna nougats and a spreadable manna cream. Between 2014 and 2016, acclaimed chef Davide Oldani featured manna-enrobed chocolate sticks at his restaurant D'O near Milan. Manna's low glucose and fructose content, coupled with its natural sweetness, makes it suitable for lower-sugar baked goods, biscuits, and desserts. Its emollient properties also lead to its use in cosmetics like creams and soaps, with research suggesting benefits for skin barrier function and inflammation reduction.

The Price of Rarity

The combination of limited production, laborious harvesting, and growing demand has significantly increased manna's market value. Often referred to as Sicily's "white gold," prices for high-quality manna can reach up to €200 per kilogram. While this price reflects its rarity and the skill involved, it also presents an economic opportunity for the Madonie region. However, production remains relatively small. The total cultivated area is estimated at around 250 hectares, primarily around Pollina and Castelbuono, a fraction of its former extent. Only a small percentage of these ash trees are actively tapped each year, keeping supply limited despite rising interest.

Cooperative Efforts for Preservation

Most chefs and commercial buyers purchase manna through the Consorzio Manna Madonita. Gelardi played a key role in establishing this growers' cooperative alongside fellow agriculturalists. The Consortium aims to improve market access for manna-related products. Crucially, it also focuses on safeguarding the tradition by teaching younger farmers the specific skills required for manna extraction. Based in Castelbuono, the consortium now unites four producer cooperatives: La 50, Oasi, Nuova Alba, and Il Girasole. Projects like "When Manna Doesn't Fall From the Sky," supported by Fondazione con il Sud, aim to reclaim abandoned ash groves and create local employment through manna production.

Image Credit - BBC

Passing the Torch

The Consortium's educational mission is vital for manna's long-term survival. "My upbringing frequently involved discussions about tree resin," states Mario Cicero, one of the younger generation embracing the craft. "The actual harvesting I had never practiced myself." Before returning to his home village near Castelbuono, Cicero gained international experience as a chef. Upon his return, he underwent training, spending months learning alongside veteran farmers, including Gelardi. "My mentor shared extensive knowledge," recalls Cicero, expressing deep respect for the dedication involved. He now cultivates around 200 ash trees on his farm, embodying the hope for continuity. This intergenerational transfer of knowledge is central to the Consortium's strategy.

Securing a Sweet Future

Witnessing young agriculturalists like Cicero become skilled 'ntaccaluori' brings Gelardi immense satisfaction. “Each person trained in the skills required regarding the manna harvesting skill set reinforces this aged cultivation,” he observes. His decades of persistent effort, often against initial resistance, have borne fruit. Manna is no longer on the brink of extinction. It is recognised as a valuable culinary ingredient, a health-promoting substance, and a symbol of Sicilian heritage. The challenge now lies in scaling production sustainably, ensuring fair returns for producers, and continuing to attract new generations to maintain this unique link between culture, agriculture, and the Madonie landscape.

Climate Change and Future Challenges

While revival efforts show promise, new challenges loom. Climate change poses a potential threat to the Fraxinus species crucial for manna production. Although some climate models suggest Manna ash (Fraxinus ornus) might gain suitable habitat at higher altitudes in Italy under certain warming scenarios, increased drought frequency and intensity, along with extreme heat events during the critical summer harvest period, could negatively impact sap flow and yield. Furthermore, ash trees across Europe face the devastating threat of ash dieback disease, caused by the invasive fungus Hymenoscyphus fraxineus. While Manna ash appears less susceptible than Common Ash (F. excelsior) or Narrow-leaved Ash (F. angustifolia), its long-term resilience remains a concern, adding urgency to conservation and sustainable management efforts.

Sustainable Practices and Continued Research

Producers like Gelardi are mindful of sustainability. He employs techniques allowing trees to regenerate after decades of harvesting. "Eventually, I cut down the main trunk but make sure to leave a lateral shoot; this way, the tree can grow again," he explains, noting some of his trees are centuries old due to this method. Ongoing research continues to explore manna's properties. Recent studies investigate its potential as an anti-aging agent, its effects on skin microbiota, and its antimicrobial properties, potentially validating traditional uses and opening avenues for new applications in dermatology and functional foods. Continued scientific validation alongside the preservation of traditional knowledge will be key to ensuring the enduring legacy of Sicily's white gold.