National Trust Under Fire for ‘Woke’ Vegan Scones 

National Trust Under Fire for 'Woke' Vegan Scones 

The historic National Trust, an organization known for its stately homes, sprawling gardens, and quintessentially British cream teas, has unexpectedly stirred up controversy. The object of ire? Their humble scone. 

Traditionalists are claiming the beloved baked good has gone “woke” due to the recent introduction of a vegan recipe. This has ignited a debate hotter than a freshly brewed pot of Earl Grey. While past disagreements have focused on the age-old question of whether jam or cream comes first, the criticism now centers on the lack of a key ingredient: butter. 

"An Unappealing Texture" 

Critics are not mincing words. Maude Newby, a National Trust member from Bury St Edmunds, spoke candidly to the Daily Mail: “I can’t stand the taste of the new scones," she said. "They are not like traditional ones at all – they are flatter, drier and have an unappealing texture.” 

The issue has even garnered the attention of politicians. Bill Cash, a Conservative MP who frequently enjoys tea and scones at the House of Commons, questioned the Trust's motivations to the newspaper. "It makes me wonder what will happen next," he said. "Will they stop selling Madeira cake because of historical events in Madeira? There’s far too much wokery going on at the National Trust; this is just the latest example.” 

National Trust Fires Back 

However, the National Trust isn't taking the criticism lightly. Celia Richardson, the Trust's director of communications, issued a statement emphasizing that its tearoom scones haven't contained milk or butter for some time. 

In a statement, a spokesperson clarified: “National Trust cafes serve millions of customers a year, and we work hard to accommodate dietary needs and allergies. Our scones are made with vegetable-based spread. This means our iconic plain and fruit scones can be enjoyed by those with dairy allergies, and vegans.” 

The Trust firmly added: “However, all scones can be enjoyed with butter or cream. Every purchase in our cafes supports the work of the National Trust.” 

Is This a Recipe for Disaster? 

The National Trust's decision raises several questions. Firstly, critics argue that by silently altering a traditional recipe, the Trust is being disingenuous to customers. They feel there should be clear signage outlining that the classic recipe has been altered to cater to plant-based preferences. 

Secondly, some culinary historians question the move's necessity. Chef and food writer Felicity Cloake suggests the change may be misplaced: "Scones weren't even traditionally made with butter. Originally they used lard. I think people forget that recipes evolve over time. Using a plant-based substitute doesn't automatically make them bad." 

On the other hand, this focus on catering to dietary restrictions highlights a growing trend within the food and hospitality industries. The number of vegans and those with dairy intolerances in the UK has risen significantly in recent years. According to a 2022 survey by The Vegan Society, the estimated population of vegans in Britain has quadrupled since 2014, now reaching approximately 1.5 million people. 

An Issue of Perception 

For many, this scone scandal encapsulates a wider cultural divide. The term ‘woke’ has increasingly been wielded as a derogatory term, often targeting organizations perceived to pander to progressive ideals. Consequently, in this case, the vegan scone serves as an unlikely proxy in a battle against perceived social change. 

Conversely, supporters of the Trust applaud its decision, arguing that it reflects the charity's commitment to inclusivity and sustainability. Indeed, the National Trust published its own Net Zero strategy in 2021, outlining goals towards more environmentally responsible practices. Some argue that promoting plant-based food choices aligns with this strategy. 

"It's not about being woke; it's about being smart," argues food blogger and plant-based advocate, Laura Thomas. "Animal agriculture is a huge contributor to climate change. It's great to see a  heritage organization like the National Trust acknowledging that and taking steps to offer more sustainable options." 

Image Credit - The Guardian

What Does the Future Hold? 

Ultimately, whether the National Trust's vegan scone will be a recipe for success or disaster depends on public reception. Traditionally, scones have been symbols of simple comfort and nostalgic charm. If the vegan scone can replicate that experience—regardless of ingredients—then perhaps this controversy will eventually simmer down. 

However, if the altered recipe is widely perceived as inferior in taste and texture, the Trust could risk alienating a loyal customer base. After all, few things have the power to unite—or divide— the British public like a cup of tea and a scone. 

Beyond Butter: The History of the Humble Scone 

To better understand the scone's role in today's cultural debate, it's helpful to look back at its often-disputed origins. While Scotland is often credited as the scone's birthplace, food historians suggest they may have evolved from earlier griddle-baked 'bannocks' that were common throughout Britain. 

The first printed reference to the word "scone" appears in a 1513 translation of the Aeneid by the Scottish poet Gavin Douglas. However, the etymology is debated. Some theorize the word may derive from the Dutch "schoonbrood'," meaning "fine white bread," while others suggest a possible connection to the Middle High German term "schōne," meaning "beautiful." 

Regardless of their exact origin, scones were traditionally a humble, quick bread made with oats, barley, or wheat. Before the use of baking powder, they were leavened with bicarbonate of soda and buttermilk, creating a distinctive, slightly tangy flavor. Scones were baked on a griddle or directly in the fire, then broken into pieces for serving. 

The Scone's Rise to Fame 

During the 19th century, as afternoon tea became a fashionable ritual in middle- and upper-class households, the scone received an elegant makeover. The introduction of baking powder led to lighter, fluffier scones, and ingredients like butter, eggs, and sugar became commonplace. This richer scone was the perfect companion for an afternoon pot of tea, served alongside clotted cream and preserves. 

The scone's popularity quickly spread beyond the tearooms of stately homes. By the early 20th century, bakeries across the country were offering fresh scones, and it became a staple of the quintessential British tea experience. This tradition holds strong today, particularly in tourist destinations known for quaint tearooms. 

The 'Correct' Way to Eat a Scone 

Another area of passionate debate – particularly in the southwest of England – centers around how to correctly assemble a cream tea. The Devon method sees clotted cream spread first, followed by a dollop of jam, while the Cornish tradition dictates the reverse – jam first, cream on top. Regardless of the regional rivalry, the deliciousness of a fresh scone slathered with cream and jam is undeniable. 

Is a Vegan Scone Still a Scone? 

This leads us back to the question at the heart of the National Trust debate: does altering the ingredients fundamentally change the essence of a scone? Traditionalists maintain that certain elements, such as butter, are indispensable for a true scone. They argue that the richness and subtle flavor imparted by butter are essential to its character. 

Others, however, counter that a scone's key attributes lie more in its texture and overall eating experience. They suggest a well-made vegan scone, with a light crumb and tender bite, can be just as enjoyable as its dairy-filled counterpart, particularly when topped with generous lashings of vegan cream. 

The Vegan Baking Debate 

The National Trust scone controversy mirrors a broader debate within the culinary world, particularly regarding the rise of vegan baking. Can plant-based ingredients truly replicate the taste and texture of traditional baked goods? 

In recent years, there's been extraordinary progress in developing egg and dairy substitutes for cakes, cookies, and pastries. Yet, veganizing certain classic recipes remains a challenge. Achieving the light, flaky texture of a croissant, for example, can be difficult without the use of butter. Similarly, capturing the rich, custardy creaminess of a cheesecake is tricky when eggs and dairy are off the menu. 

Despite the challenges, many vegan bakers are fiercely determined to prove that deliciousness doesn't have to come at the expense of one's dietary choices or ethical principles. They experiment with ingredients such as aquafaba (the viscous liquid from chickpeas) as an egg white substitute and use cashews to create creamy sauces and fillings. 

"It's not about perfectly replicating the original," argues vegan cookbook author Emily Lambert. "It's about finding ways to create new and equally delicious plant-based versions that bring the same joy and satisfaction." 

The Public's Verdict 

The success of vegan baking often hinges on public perception. Some people may approach a vegan scone with an inherent bias, assuming it can never match the flavor or texture of a traditional scone. Conversely, others might be genuinely surprised and delighted by how enjoyable and similar the plant-based version can be. 

This highlights the power of suggestion. If the National Trust were to market its vegan scone as a delicious and satisfying plant-based alternative, rather than a direct substitute for a classic, the reception might be more positive. Similarly, labeling it as a "traditional recipe" when it's notably altered could breed mistrust and disappointment among customers. 

Image Credit - Vegan

A Scone for Everyone? 

Perhaps the most ideal solution would be for the National Trust to offer both traditional and vegan scone options, clearly labeled and marketed as such. This would cater to a diverse range of dietary needs and preferences, ensuring everyone can enjoy the simple pleasure of a scone with their afternoon tea. 

Ultimately, the National Trust scone debacle underscores the changing landscape of food culture. As consumer demands shift towards more sustainable, inclusive, and allergy-friendly options, even traditions like a simple scone might need to adapt to meet these evolving tastes. Whether the British public will embrace a plant-based scone with open arms remains to be seen. Only time, and perhaps a generous dollop of vegan clotted cream, will tell. 

The Future of the National Trust Scone 

The National Trust scone controversy offers a fascinating glimpse into the intersection of tradition, dietary inclusivity, and cultural shifts. While it might seem like a tempest in a teapot, it highlights larger questions about how beloved institutions navigate a changing world. 

The National Trust, with its mission to preserve Britain's heritage and open spaces, must find ways to maintain relevance for a diverse public. This includes catering to evolving tastes and making efforts to be accessible to all, including those with dietary restrictions. The addition of vegan options could be a savvy move to attract younger, more ethically-minded visitors who value sustainability and animal welfare. 

However, transparency remains paramount. If the Trust wants to maintain goodwill, it needs clear communication about any changes to its classic offerings. Nostalgia is powerful, and people may feel deceived if they are served something significantly different from what they've come to expect. 

Perhaps the most effective approach would be to position the vegan scone as a delicious plant-based alternative, rather than a direct replacement for the traditional recipe. This allows those who want a classic scone experience to continue enjoying it, while simultaneously offering those with vegan or dairy-free needs a tasty option that aligns with their choices. 

Food for Thought

Beyond the specific case of the National Trust scone, the controversy prompts reflection on the dynamic nature of food traditions. Recipes evolve across generations, influenced by new ingredients, techniques, and cultural shifts. While it's essential to honor culinary heritage, there's also room for innovation and adaptation. 

The scone itself is a product of continuous evolution. From its humble beginnings as a griddle-baked oatcake to its later reinventions as a teatime treat, the scone has embodied adaptability. Perhaps its transition to include a vegan iteration is simply the next chapter in its long and delicious history. 

Ultimately, the question isn't whether a vegan scone is "better" or "worse" than its traditional counterpart. The real issue lies in how we choose to frame it. If we approach food—even something as simple as a scone— with openness, curiosity, and a willingness to embrace change, we might discover new favorites and pave the way for greater inclusivity in our cherished  food traditions.